some maintenance efforts indoors. This month also provides an opportunity to see if your hard work during earlier months paid off — nothing tests waterproofing efforts like a hard November rain.Maintain large appliancesAs the holiday season begins, make sure your appliances are prepared for the demands you will place on them.Pull your refrigerator from the wall and clean the condenser coils in back with a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment. Also, vacuum dust from the front lower grille and clean the drip pan and the drain leading to it (if your unit has one).Clean the oven and stove drip pans on your electric range. Clean the surface burner on your gas stove to ensure proper flame level.De-stench your in-sink garbage disposal by packing it with ice cubes and 1/4 cup of baking soda; then turn it on. After the ice-grinding noise stops, pour a kettle full of boiling water into the sink.Check the dishwasher strainer and washer arm; clean if necessary.Clean and maintain closetsGo to your closets and perform these two simple tests: Can you see floor space, and can you easily close the door? If the answer to either one of these questions is no, clean your closet. Cramped closets can provide haven for pests, too-full racks can break free from walls, and sliding doors can be derailed by too much stuff. Add compartments and hanging racks at different levels to utilize more space.Maintain woodworkNovember is a good month to repair and reglue woodwork, since indoor air is at its driest. If you are regluing wobbly dining room chairs, clamp during drying by wrapping a rope tightly around the perimeter of the legs. Be sure to protect wood surfaces with cardboard before tightening rope. Try using toothpaste on white water stains on wood surfaces. Once the stain is removed, polish with furniture polish. Use paste wax and elbow grease to put a new sheen on wood furniture.Clear leaves from guttersCleaning gutters is a slimy job, but the task will protect your siding and basement from expensive water damage. Don long rubber gloves, grab a gallon bucket and scoop leaves into the bucket by hand. Trying to use a garden trowel or other device just makes the task more cumbersome and can damage gutters. Blast the scum from the bottom of the gutter with a hose equipped with a pressure nozzle. If it doesn’t drain well, feed your running hose up the pipe to knock loose the clog. Dump the contents of the bucket on your compost pile and pat yourself on the back for a dirty job well done.Speaking of leaves …Check some other places where accumulated leaves can be a problem. If leaves are piled in the valleys of your roof, they can retain water and initiate leaks. Walk your property with a shovel and clear drainage ditches and culverts of leaf buildup. Also, a moderate amount of leaves on a lawn can provide a natural mulch, but if large amounts are left to soak up winter rains, they will smother the grass beneath them. Have problem trees trimmedNow that you’ve cleaned your gutters, you know which trees are dumping leaves on your roof, shading it enough to encourage moss, and close enough to cause serious damage should they lose a branch in a storm. Trees are dormant this time of the year and can withstand extensive pruning. Decide which ones need cutting back and hire a professional to do the job. This is not a do-it-yourself task if the trees you are looking at are high enough to affect your roof. Trimming large trees is a dangerous job that should be left to an expert.Maintain moistureHeaters, especially forced air and wood stoves, can rob a home of humidity. A touch of moisture in the air makes heated air feel warmer, so you can keep the heat at a slightly lower temperature if your humidity is balanced. If your woodwork is cracking or your skin seems excessively dry, you need more moisture in your home. A furnace-mounted humidifier is likely the answer if your home has central forced-air heat and other measures don’t moisten things up. If you have a wood stove, put a teakettle (nonwhistling!) on it and add water regularly (check it daily to make sure the water hasn’t evaporated away). If you prefer not to go by feel, buy an inexpensive instrument called a hygrometer that measures humidity.Maintain pools down southFor most of the country, pools are out of sight and out of mind during November. But if you live in sunny southern climes, this month marks the beginning of the dry season and the time to begin any pool maintenance job that requires emptying the pool. If a pool is emptied when groundwater levels are high, it can “float” and damage itself. So if you’re fortunate enough to live in a place where you can actually enjoy your pool in December, consider having major maintenance like replastering done this time of year.Check your sump pumpSome unfinished basements in wet areas have sump pumps installed. These pumps switch on automatically when ground water levels rise, eliminating basement water before it becomes a problem. If you have one, make sure it is in good working order before the rainy season starts.Buy foam-cup covers for outdoor faucetsBe prepared to protect your spigots when the weather gets chilly and flirts with going below the freezing level. The foam cups are commonly sold at hardware stores and provide a cheap insurance policy that will help keep exposed pipes from freezing. News source: MSN

The heater core works in conjunction with your engine’s cooling system. The function of the cooling system is to remove heat from the engine, and it does this for the most part by sending the heated anti-freeze to the radiator located in the front of the car. The position of the radiator allows outside air to blow across the radiator thus cooling the anti-freeze. The anti-freeze is then sent back to the engine. Hot anti-freeze is circulated throughout the cooling system by the radiator and heater hoses. Think of the heater core as a small radiator located inside the dashboard of your vehicle. Click for picture. Anti-freeze is constantly being circulated throughout the engine, radiator, and yes even the heater core regardless of whether you have the heater dashboard switch on.When the heater is turned on by the driver, a diverter door opens to the heater core area in the dashboard. A small fan (commonly referred to as the a/c fan or blower) blows air across the hot heater core into the duct work of the dashboard and into the interior of your car. When the heater core leaks (it leaks anti-freeze of course) it will usually leak inside the car on the passenger floorboard under the carpet. If your heater isn’t working properly, or if you smell a sweet odor, investigate the passenger-side floorboard for signs of anti-freeze leakage. A leaking heater core may also cause a greasy film on the inside of the windows.So what causes the heater core to leak in the first place? Usually the main culprit is rust build up caused from lack of cooling system flushes. Anti-freeze acts as a lubricant and rust inhibitor as well as a temperature controlling substance. Anti-freeze should be flushed and replaced periodically to keep the cooling system in good working order. Rusty anti-freeze is usually a sign of a coolant leak somewhere in the cooling system that has allowed air to enter the system. It may be a leaky radiator hose, water pump, heater core, radiator, etc. Rust build up can be just as damaging to the radiator and other internal engine parts.How do you stop the anti-freeze from leaking onto the floor board? Obviously you can replace the leaking heater core itself, which is the correct fix and is what your mechanic recommended. You can also try a can of radiator stop leak additive to see if it will patch the hole (this might be an acceptable temporary repair), or you can cut off the flow of anti-freeze to the heater core all together. There are two heater hoses that are attached to the heater core from under the hood. Click for picture. These hoses can be cut and blocked off with a hose clamp, or a small hose splice can be inserted between the two hoses to create a loop thus avoiding the heater core all together. This works great to temporarily repair a leaking heater in the summer time.Another cause of a heater that is not leaking but is not heating properly can be a faulty thermostat. The thermostat is calibrated to keep the anti-freeze inside the engine at a constant temperature. A faulty thermostat might not allow the engine temperature to get hot enough to heat the anti-freeze. Thermostats generally do not need periodic replacement unless there is an under- or over-heating situation. When replacing the thermostat, make sure to install the proper heat range recommended by the manufacturer. Proper engine temperature plays a vital role in fuel economy and overall running condition of the engine, as well as regulating cooling system temperature.Low anti-freeze levels or poor circulation of anti-freeze throughout the cooling system will hamper heater performance as well. If there is not enough hot anti-freeze to circulate and deliver to the heater core, heater efficiency will be greatly reduced. If you suspect a problem with your heater, first check the anti-freeze level in the radiator and make sure the fluid is in good shape and of proper color (either green or orange/red if you’re using one of the new extended life products on the market).To check anti-freeze color, dip some out and look at it in a glass container. (We use an anti-freeze hydrometer, which is basically an expensive turkey baster.) When you are looking at the anti-freeze in the radiator, you can only see the top surface color, and it will usually look okay even if it’s not.If low or contaminated fluid is not the problem, feel the two heater hoses going from the engine to the heater to make sure they are hot (the engine needs to be at normal operating temperature). If the heater hoses are not hot, inspect the radiator hoses for internal cooling system blockage.With the engine at normal operating temperature, the upper radiator hose should be very hot, and the lower radiator hose should be just slightly less hot. If there is a substantial temperature variation, a blockage or restriction is probably present. A faulty thermostat and a radiator or heater core that is full of calcium deposits or rust build up are a few causes of cooling system restrictions. News source: Trusty Mechanic

When you go to buy a used car, it’s important to make sure that you know what you’re buying. Prices vary considerably, and there’s often good reason. Two cars that look similar on the outside can be very different on the inside. Here are 6 tips to make sure the used car you’re buying has a good motor:1. Make sure the motor runs smoothly. Do you hear any knocking or strange noises? If you do, don’t buy.2. Look at the spark plugs. Take at least one wire off and look for oil or burn marks. If you see damage, beware.3. Take a long enough test drive. When you do this, you will let the engine get up to a normal temperature. Watch the gauges and make sure they stay normal. Look for any warning lights that come on. Doing this can save you a lot of trouble. If warnings go off, you know you’re looking at a car that needs some work.4. Put the hood up and take a look at the motor while it’s running. Is there anything unusual (like oil spurting)? That sounds obvious, but you won’t know if you don’t look.5. While you have the hood up, look around completely to see if there’s anything out of the ordinary. For example, evidence of an oil or fluid leak would be cause of alarm.6. Make sure the engine starts quickly and easily. If it doesn’t, you might have an issue with an old battery, a failing ignition, or a multitude of other problems.Be sure to make use of those 6 tips when you’re buying a used car. If you do, you can be confident that you’re buying a good, dependable car. News source: CarWizard

A lot of discussion about serpentine belts lately. They were the most oversold item. As they became harder to install ,due to lack of space in many of today’s engine compartments, they have been replaced by various fluid replacements and the ever fearful cabin air filter. Don’t get me wrong many fluids due need to be replaced as do cabin filters but if I was having my car serviced and someone came at me with a bunch of vials filed with various colored fluids I would say no before they spoke a word. I have never seen a serpentine belt that failed due to wear usually it is from a driven accessory failure. They have to be really in tough shape to fail I mean they can have chunks missing and be frayed at the edges and still perform. Usually they will make some noises before failing I think this is why I have seen very few fail due to wear.Replace the belt when it has cracks the entire length or it is frayed and then check the pulley alignment.

Snow covers your car. After 10 minutes of shoveling snow and ice from the roof and windows (not to mention 30 minutes of shoveling the driveway), you’re ready to go to work. Twisting the key languidly brings the engine to life, much to your relief. But … the windshield wipers leave streaks, the washers drizzle fluid inches short of the glass, the battery light flickers and the heater fan blows little air of any temperature. Not a particularly good day for even a late-model car that’s been neglected. Winter Takes Its TollThe traditional tuneup is gone. Newer cars are largely self-tuning, and don’t have ignition points or carburetors to tweak. Factory-fill radiator coolant in some new cars is rated for 100,000 miles, far longer than many people keep a car in this age of low-monthly-payment leases. Cars are still imperfect, mechanical contrivances, however. Although many maintenance requirements are reduced, there ‘s still plenty of stuff that can break or fall off. An afternoon of preventive maintenance will greatly reduce the possibility of bad things happening. It’s autumn—the leaves are falling, but the weather is still relatively warm. A couple of hours of maintenance will be a lot easier to take now than a couple of hours of repairs when you have to shovel your way an extra 50 ft. to work in an unheated garage. The Easy StuffClean. Clean out the interior and the trunk. Shampoo the carpets and the seats, because a winter of slush and melted snow will infiltrate dirt deep into the fibers, there to remain forever. Dump the ashtray. Clean the wheel well arches and undercarriage of mud and road dirt, so that salty slush doesn’t soak into them, providing a perfect environment for rust. ElectricalWhile you’re cleaning, clean the battery with warm water. Remove the terminals and wirebrush them and the battery posts with warm water and baking soda. Reattach the terminals and coat all exposed metal with petroleum jelly. You’re not done yet -— using some sort of household cleaner, clean all traces of dirt and oil from the battery’s top and sides, particularly near the terminals. Traces of dirt can trap moisture, especially during damp winter days. This moisture acts as a conductor along a path that normally doesn’t conduct electricity at all, and can leak enough current between the battery posts to prematurely drain your battery. In fact, consider replacing your battery if it’s more than four years old. Newer cars tend to use smaller batteries to reduce weight and improve mileage, and, combined with high underhood temperatures, that spells an earlier demise than you may have gotten 10 to 15 years ago. While you’re at it, check all the electrical connections for looseness and corrosion. That may mean getting underneath the car to see the ground strap and solenoid/starter motor connections. Check all light bulbs and replace any that aren’t working. The days are short during the winter, and you’ll depend on these bulbs for visibility a much larger proportion of the day. News source: Men MSN Underhood In GeneralStill in an electrical mode, check the alternator connections and mounts for looseness and evidence of overheating. High electrical demands for lights, heater fans and rear-window defrosters, as well as recharging a battery abused by coaxing a reluctant engine to life, can make a marginal connection overheat. ZoomCheck accessory belt condition and tension, because that extra electrical demand will strain a marginal belt. Many modern cars have a single serpentine, automatically tensioned belt, but it still can fray and come off. Check all rubber hoses. Five years, in these times of air pollution and high underhood temperatures, is a legitimate life span for a radiator hose. If one seems squishy, brittle or just suspect, now would be a good time to replace them all. ZoomCheck the date on the coolant. (Remember many new cars have extended drain intervals -— but not permanent coolant. Read the owner’s manual.) If it’s due to be replaced, use a 50-50 mix of fresh coolant and water. Consider changing your transmission fluid, differential lubricant and brake fluid if your car is more than 3 years old. Lubricants break down, and brake fluid attracts moisture and deteriorates. At any rate, check the levels, and don’t forget the power steering reservoir. Fill the windshield washer tank with washer fluid. Check the pump and nozzles for a healthy, well-aimed spray pattern. Many nozzles can be re-aimed by inserting a pin into the nozzle to use as a handle. Windshield wipers are essential for winter driving, and after a summer of sunshine, the rubber squeegees are probably in sorry shape. Play it safe and replace them. Be sure the wiper arms and springs are in good shape, and that the blade is held square to the windshield surface. You may need to bend it slightly to keep everything square. Check the air cleaner, and consider replacing it and the fuel filter. The fuel filter will tend to trap water, and once it traps enough, it will fail and dump all of its accumulated dirt into your fuel injection system. And winter, of course, is when you tend to find the most water in Fuel at the pump. ZoomWhere The Rubber Meets The RoadDriving in snow demands good tires. Be sure you have adequate tread depth, and consider changing to snow tires if you live in a heavy snow area. Go ahead and pick up a set of inexpensive steel wheels at the local salvage yard for your snows instead of having your tires remounted and balanced every fall and spring. And while the car is up on the safety stands, inspect the suspension bushings, control arms, ball joints and tie rods, and the brakes. Now would be a good time to replace the brake pads if they are more than 60 percent worn. Even if they are not, check carefully for corrosion around the calipers and sliding pins. While the wheel is off, pull the pads out of the calipers and be sure everything is sliding freely. Wirebrush sliding-key ways and pins that let the pads pull back from the disc when you remove your foot from the brake. Exercise the pistons by pushing them back into the calipers and then pressing on the brake pedal once or twice to break up corrosion between the piston and the caliper. Again, it’s a lot easier to look at this stuff on a crisp autumn day than it is to try to fix it some subzero morning when all of your wrenches stick to your fingers like the proverbial dared 6-year-old’s tongue sticks to a frigid flagpole. Rust Never SleepsBefore the salt trucks come out is a good time to get out the touchup paint. Use it to cover all the bare metal at the bottom of any stone chips and parking lot dings. Clean the chipped area thoroughly, and use a toothpick or a match to apply a touch of zinc-rich primer to the bare metal. Allow this to dry, and chase any overlap back to the lip of the scratch with lacquer thinner. Then carefully fill the chip with touchup paint. It’ll shrink, so you may need several applications to build up the level of paint to flush. On The RoadEven a perfectly running car may wind up stuck in a snowbank. So put together a kit of essentials for your trunk. This should include flares, a flashlight, jumper cables (if only to help some unfortunate soul whose car wasn’t winterized like yours), a folding camp shovel, kitty litter for traction, a bottle of gasline drier, and tire chains if they’re legal in your state. If you ever travel outside of urban areas, a couple of blankets and a cellphone or CB radio ought to be on board as well.

Now, a few words about tool safety. As with anything, common sense will tell you what is safe and what isn’t. When you turn a ratchet or wrench, try to pull towards you and not push away. If you push a tool, there is a good chance that when the fastener comes loose, it will come loose quickly, and your hand will probably wind up smashing into something. That could result in a skinned knuckle at the least or a broken finger or hand at the worst. You will not always be able to do this, so use extra care when you can’t. Look at the job and see where your hand will go when that nut cracks loose. Then put some rags there to cushion the area in case you do hit it. Keep our wrenches clean, a grease-covered tool will let your hand slip off and cause you an injury. Besides, if you have good tools the grease is not required to keep them from rusting.Never use a screwdriver as a chisel or pry bar. Banging on the end of a screwdriver will force the handle down and the blade can come out of the handle end and, at the very least, ruin a good screwdriver and your hand at worst. If you use it as a pry bar, the tip can break off and go flying somewhere, maybe into your eye. If you need to hammer something, use a hammer. Don’t use your screwdriver handle because the plastic handle can shatter. If your unch or chisel is mushroomed, file or grind it back to its original shape. I was working across from a mechanic that was using a well-mushroomed punch and when he hit it with the hammer, a chunk of metal broke off and embedded itself in my chest. So if you think that danger is not real, I’m living proof it is. Wear your safety glasses. You only have two eyes and if you want to continue doing your own repairs, you’re going to need them.There will be many other tools that you will need as your skills improve. Tools you’ll find that you need or just want. I know many mechanics that collect tools the way a stamp collector collects stamps. You’ll find that you need a special tool for a specific job so you’ll go out and get that tool and add it to your toolbox. There is nothing like having the right tool for the right job. You will do the job more efficiently, reduce the chances of stripping a fastener and, most important of all, do it safely. News source: About Auto Repair

Get to the auction early! I know that sounds really simple ? but then buying a used car at a used car auction is not rocket science. You just have to bear in mind some simple and basic rules of thumb and you should be fine. So, get there early and have a good look around. Take your time finding the car you want and make sure you have your Kelley Blue Book, NADA guide, or Edmunds book if you’re going to a used car auction to get an idea of the car?s value.When you find a car you like, open all the doors, trunk and hood and find the VIN stickers and make sure they match. If they don?t the car is either stolen, was a wreck or has been rebuilt from different cars. In any event, check out the VIN number. Call a friend on your cell phone (or use your pocket PC) and get them to check it out online. There are several services that will give you a report online instantly. Remember the auctioneers have a vested interest in any information you get from them ? so be prepared to verify your facts independently.Of course, there are several types of ?auction? available to you. These include online auctions like eBay and yahoo, police and government car auctions, public auctions, insurance salvage auctions and wholesale auctions. Though the last two are normally only open to dealers.Keep in mind that online car auctions are not so different to public car auctions. Once you have won your bid you are committed to buy. So it pays to run the same VIN checks and it may well be worth setting up an inspection period with the seller. So that you can have a certified mechanic inspect the car and determine if there is anything unsatisfactory about the car that was not disclosed at the auction.Police and government car auctions are not really much different to public car auctions. In other words, you are not likely to get your car ?dirt cheap?. You won?t be the only one there bidding for a ?dirt cheap? and before you know it you can easily end up paying way over the published price. For my money, bearing in mind that these cars may not have been maintained or driven for months, I?d rather not pay more than trade price for a car at one of these auctions. Otherwise, what?s the point of being there?Finally, once you have purchased your car, and despite the pitfalls, there are genuinely thousands and thousands of happy customers out there ? give serious consideration to taking out an extended car warranty. News source: My Car Wizard

Having car buyers at the dealership, at the negotiating table, excited about a vehicle and ready to make a purchase is the only time the dealership has a chance to really make some money.? The best way they can do this is by making consumers focus on payments.This is where the four-square worksheet and other tools like it come into play.? Usually the four squares show their price, the value of the trade, the cash down, and the payment.? Here is a normal method of presenting the deal:The car salesperson walks in and puts the sheet in front of you, facing you.? They point to each square as they go over the numbers.?This is for ours? this is yours? with $3,000 down, your monthly payments would be $789 per month.? Initial here and I?ll go get it cleaned up!?Whoa, whoa, whoa!? $789 per month?? $3,000 down?? What happened to zero down and $249 a month like the advertisement said?And just like that, they have you.? The last two numbers were so outrageous and spoken out loud.? The first two we skimmed over and never spoken.? You?re ready to leave, but before you can, the salesperson will identify the objection, which will usually be the payment and money down, and try to fix it.After a few rounds of back and forth, they relent to $500 down and $279 per month, magically making the numbers acceptable for you.? Still, at no time did they adjust the top numbers.? They simply kept the customer focused on payment and cash down.? They won News source: MY Car Wizard The best way to prepare for car shopping and get the best deal is to focus on trade difference ? the difference between their car and your car.? You can also consider ?total financed amount?, which is trade difference plus your trade-in?s payoff.If you can find an honest car dealer that works strictly with trade difference, such as Oklahoma City Lincoln Town Cars, you?ll have a much more enjoyable experience.If there are no dealerships like them locally, follow these steps and you?ll avoid getting redirected in the direction the dealership wants you to look:1)????? Determine your likely interest rate.? Better yet, get pre-approved at your bank, credit union, or other lending institution.? The dealership will probably be able to get a better rate, but knowing what the current rates are for your credit situation and for the kind of vehicles you are considering will help dramatically.2)????? Determine your monthly budget, desired down payment (if any), and desired term.? Find a loan calculator and plug in numbers until you know match your budget.? If you know going in that a total finance amount of $15,000 with zero down will be $311 per month for 60 months at 8.9%, you will be able to find the car that fits your budget.3)????? Get all the numbers you need ahead of time.? If you know how much vehicles you are considering are selling for at local dealerships, and you know how much your trade is probably worth, and you know your exact payoff, you can determine what your target trade difference and amount financed will be.4)????? Try to get your trade evaluated first.? Many dealerships won?t do it, plus it won?t help you in negotiating (despite other articles that claim the contrary), but it will tell you how much vehicle you can consider at that car lot.? Do not make the mistake of trying to find the dealership that offers the most for your trade up front.? If your car is worth $5,000, some dealerships will say it is worth $4,000, while others may say it?s worth $8,000.? In reality, they are all giving approximately the same, but you?ll find that the dealership giving $8,000 is probably $3k-$4k higher on the price of their vehicles.? Again, focus on trade difference.5)????? As rough as it is to go to multiple car dealers, it is a good idea.? Gather trade differences on similar vehicles, then go back to the dealership with the best one.? Then ask them to make it even better.? They may or they may not, but it never hurts to ask.6)????? Talk payments with the finance manager only, and only after the trade difference is acceptable.? If you know that a $15,000 loan will be around $310 per month, there is no reason to argue it with a salesperson who comes with numbers showing the $15,000 loan at $370 per month.? They want you to agree to leave a ?cushion? for finance to sell you a warranty, bump your rate, or sell some other products.? Again, if the trade difference is acceptable, worry about the rest of the numbers with the finance manager.7)????? Be strong.? Focus on the prize.? Do not let anything or anyone distract you from the important number: trade difference.? That is the only number you need to negotiate on the floor.? Bring a copy of this article if you must, but make sure they know you know what they know.? You know?It is an extremely competitive market, more so than ever before.? The internet has made it increasingly difficult for car dealerships to make money.Consumers have access to online inventories and classified sites like Baltimore Used Cars.They can get ideas of their trade values at Black Book Online.They can check loan payment calculators, find affordable warranties, and get a used car?s vehicle history report.? For all of this, we can thank the Internet.I hope it helps. News source: MY Car Wizard

Which Auto Collision Center Should I UseNext to your home, your car is the second largest investment you will make. You spend a great deal of time choosing that right car. And then in minutes you suddenly find yourself with a car that has been damaged in an automobile accident. As a result the same common question continuously gets asked “Which auto collision center should I use”?Tgis is a very good question. Vehicles arent cheap, and with such a big investment you want to be certain that the repair is done right and since you have the right to choose who will fix your car What ever you do, dont let your insurance company try to bully you into using whom they want. Different auto collision centers will have different rates, different practices, and different ways of filling out their auto repair estimate, which means you need to be alert as to how they are quoting their work. What looks like the cheapest quote may not be once you take everything into account. The auto collision center has to work with your insurance company to put things right and get you back on the road as soon as possible.Here are just a few things to find out about. That way you can compare each of the auto collision centers on a level playing field.What are the hours of operation and do they work with your schedule? Do they have a drop off service or a late pickup service?Is there a guaranteed delivery date to have your car repairs completed?Do they offer a loaner vehicle to drive while your vehicle is being repaired?How long do they warranty their work for? Is there a lifetime guarantee and if so is it on paint? Repairs? Labor?What is the qualifications of the craftsman in the auto collision center?How long has the company been in business?What type of equipment do they have for repairs? Do they offer state of the art equipment?Do they guarantee color match?Do they utilize laser measuring?Where are the centers located?Whats it going to cost?Before you do anything, if it is at all possible its a good idea to drop by, see the facilities, and get a quote. There are more than 35,000 auto body repair shops across the country, which can make it a bit confusing to choose. Use the tools at your disposal. The internet is an excellent resource, and having your list of questions answered can help you make the right choice.The average auto repair takes two weeks so make sure you have made alternative arrangements with a rental car. You should also make sure you are happy with their commitment to customer satisfaction and remember you can always check with the Better Business Bureau to make sure the company has a good reputation.Which auto collision center should you use? The choice is still yours but these tips should help you find the best facility for your repairs.. News source: Utah Careers

Many articles and sites promote using the internet tools and shady tactics to coax car dealerships into giving more money for your trade-in.? While some of these methods have a measure of substance, the most important things have been around since well before the internet and are still valid today.Car salespeople are trained from day one that the most important thing they need to do to set up a profitable car deal is to build value, especially with used cars and trucks.? They are shown ways to enhance the consumers? experience and to promote the preowned vehicle in the best possible light.The same holds true for the consumer in regards to their trade in.? Just like selling preparing a house for sale, preparing a car for sale can increase its value greatly.? Here are some ways to do just that.(1)?? Clean It, SillyIt sounds simple, and for those who are thinking ?duh?, you would be shocked to know how often this basic tactic is not used.If possible, get it completely detailed, including shampooing the carpet and floor mats, waxing the exterior, and spraying odor neutralizers or using ionizers to eliminate odors (especially smoke).? Most dealerships will give a small, sometimes even subconscious boost to the value of a vehicle if it is ?lot ready? when it arrives.(2)?? Empty It OutThere are articles out there that suggest not emptying a trade-in because it makes the dealer think you?re eager to give them your vehicle.? That sort of advice is absolutely ridiculous.If you intend to trade your car, make no efforts to hide the fact.? There is an entire article that can be written debunking the often implied concept of hiding your trading intentions, but for now, please have faith that letting the dealership know you are ready to trade your car will give you more advantages than disadvantages.Make it easy to ?move out? of you vehicle by having everything that you are not leaving with the vehicle out and waiting at home to be replaced into your new car.? For the items staying with your trade in?(3)?? Prepare a ?Care Package?Have everything that is staying in the car in a bag, preferably a large plastic Ziploc bag.? The owner?s manual, maintenance records, valet key, second key and key-fobs, and any care items you have that you won?t need in your new vehicle (leather treatment, touch-up paint, etc.) should all be ready for the salesperson for when they stock in their latest trade, yours.This gives a sense of organization and meticulous care that will carry over during the appraisal process.? The dealer will know that if you took this much care of the car when you were getting rid of it, you probably took great care of it when you owned it.? More subliminal money invested into your trade.(4)?? Spend Up to $100 Making it Ready to SellPeople will sometimes ask if they should get this repaired or that fixed.? Rarely will the cost of fixing something translate into an equal bump in trade value.? Dealerships can fix their used cars cheaper than we can.Some things you would want to consider spending money on would be an oil change and or tune-up, wiper blades, at least a half tank of gas (again, this is for subliminal reasons), and possibly even some ?luxury? adds such as fuel injector cleaner.? Anything too expensive ? just let them know a little bit about it and ask them if they think you should get it fixed before trading.? They will almost always say no to this, but offering can disarm them a bit from deducting too much from the value.(5)?? Tell the Dealer Something Wrong with the CarThe important thing to remember here is ?something?.? You may or may not choose to reveal chronic problems that you?ve dealt with ? that part is up to you and your conscious.? If there are no major problems, find something, anything that you can point out.Someone saying that their trade-in is perfect is begging for a more thorough check in the vehicle.? Mentioning a couple of minor scratches on the passenger side, a slight shimmy at 70 MPH, or poor reception for a particular radio station when you get to the south-side of town will go a long ways in building credibility in you and your trade.They will probably find these things anyway, so offering them up front makes them think, ?If that?s all that?s wrong with it, this car must be in great shape.?– Final Thought –Trade values are always negotiable.? Do not look at it as a buy and trade transaction.? Consider it like a seller to seller transaction.? Just as they are selling you a new or used car, you are selling them your used car.? Showing pride and confidence in the quality of your product can really help you get the most out of your trade-in.? News source: My Car Wizard