The weather is officially drifting into the hot zone, which means windows are up and air conditioning is in full effect. This is fine if your a/c is in top shape, but if it’s out of commission or running at half cool, you’re starting to sweat the situation. Savitha’s a/c isn’t keeping things cool enough, so she took her car to the shop for a check-up: I have a used 1999 Honda Civic, 2 door for about a year now. The A/C takes longer to blow cold air. So I took it to a mechanic shop and I was told that there was no leak found and the freon was low. I called up another store and there I was told that freon doesn’t just evaporate and stays the same for at least 10 years.I don’t know what to do now. Can Freon evaporate without any leaks in the system? Or the leak is there and I need to get the mechanic to do a thorough check all over again?Sabitha is in a frustrating situation to be sure. The problem with air conditioning systems is that they can have a very slow leak that is pretty much undetectable. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try to find the leak. Be sure that your mechanic did a dye test under full pressure, while the car was running with the a/c on. This can uncover some pretty small leaks in the system.If your mechanic can’t find anything after a serious investigation, there’s not a lot you can do except start replacing parts — lines, condenser, evaporator, pump — but this can get pretty expensive. If your car was in an accident in the past one of these parts could have been damaged just enough to cause a slow leak. Since Sabitha has only had her car for a year or so, she might not know the history. Finally, there is a chance that the a/c system was worked on in the past and not refilled properly, meaning you never had enough freon in the system. If I were in Sabitha’s position, I would be sure a proper leakdown test was performed using a dye indicator to be sure there isn’t a detectable leak. If it can’t be found, just refill the system and see what happens. You might find that you have no leak at all! News source: About auto repair

Your timing belt is the most important maintenance item in your engine. Think of your timing belt as the conductor of the complex mechanical orchestra that is your car’s engine. If things don’t happen just at the right time, the whole piece is thrown off. You should replace your timing belt at the manufacturer’s suggested intervals regardless of its visual condition, but it’s a good idea to do an inspection every 10,000 miles or so. On most cars the timing belt is easily seen by removing the plastic timing cover on the front of the engine, usually held on by a couple of phillips head screws or clips.To inspect the belt, first look at the outside of the belt to see if any tiny cracks are forming. One or two small cracks in the outer shiny coating of the belt are ok, but if you see lots of cracking on the surface this may indicate extreme wear.Timing Belt ReplacementFind Answers & Useful Links On Timing Belt Replacement[url”>www.Blurtit.comNext flip the belt over slightly to inspect the teeth. A single broken tooth can be catastrophic. Also check the belt’s play by twisting it. If you can turn it much more than halfway around, it might have too much free play. Check your manual to see what your car’s specs indicate.Don’t hold off on timing belt replacement. If it breaks or shreds, you can be looking at some serious repair bills. News source: About Auto Repair

. “Car (Starter Motor) Won’t Crank”. Make sure the battery is fully charged, before diagnosing starter problems.. Make sure the gearshift is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission) or the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmission), if the starter motor does not turn at all when the switch is turned to Start.1. If the starter motor doesn’t turn, but the starter solenoid (relay) “clicks” when the ignition switch is turned to Start, the problem is with the battery, starter solenoid, or starter motor connections.2. Disconnecting the negative battery cable first, clean battery terminals and cable connections with a battery terminal brush or with abrasive cloth. Also, check the battery ground cable connection to the body and engine. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished.3. While the negative battery cable is disconnected, clean starter motor and starter solenoid connections. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished. Make sure all connections are secure. When installing the starter cable, make sure that the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. Reconnect the negative battery terminal last.4. If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. Also, the ring gear on the flywheel or drive plate may be worn.5. If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (circuit is open), or the solenoid is defective.6. In order to check the solenoid, put the transmission in Park and remove the push-on connector from the solenoid “S” terminal. Connect a jumper lead, or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is fine and the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring. If the starter motor still does not operate, replace the solenoid.7. If the starter motor cranks the engine slowly, ensure the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are clean and tight. Then, check connections at the starter solenoid and battery ground. The engine will also crank slowly, if it’s partially seized or has the wrong viscosity oil in it. Synthetic engine oil allows starter motors to turn the engine over easier and faster, thus promoting starting and reducing battery drain. News source: AskMe

The advent of power brakes on automobiles was a huge step forward in vehicle safety. Even the weakest driver was now able to apply maximum braking force and control even the largest vehicle. But as with every advance, power brakes created a new problem. Cars stop fastest when their wheels do not skid. The shortest stopping distance is achieved when the brakes are applied such that the wheels are almost but not quite skidding. When power assist gave everyone the ability to apply maximum force to the brakes, skids became even more likely. During panic stops or on slick roads, drivers were more likely to apply excessive force and go into a dangerous skid. Drivers were taught to pump the brake pedal, applying and releasing the brakes as quickly as possible to maintain control and stop as quickly as possible. But this was a stop-gap solution at best and engineers were actively working on a better fix. News source: How to When computers became viable components of automobiles, the idea of automatically controlling the application of the brakes became a real possibility. The concept was to have the computer pump the brake pedal instead of the driver. Obviously the computer could do it faster and more accurately and so minimize skidding. The problem was how to provide the proper information to the computer and how to interpret its output. The first step was to develop sensors that could be mounted on each wheel. The use of computers in cars spurred the development of sensors that could provide relevant information to the computers. In this case, the solution was to adapt magnetic sensing technology that had already been successfully used in others areas of the vehicle. These sensors tell the computer how fast the wheels are spinning and the computer also has information about how fast the vehicle is moving. When the brakes are applied, the computer monitors wheel speed and vehicle speed. If it detects that a wheel has stopped spinning but the vehicle is still moving, this means that the wheel is skidding. The computer then releases the brake on that wheel until the skid stops and then reapplies the brake. Each wheel is monitored and controlled separately. The computer can release and apply the brakes many times in just a few seconds. Even the best drivers can’t match this performance. The driver maintains steering control and still achieves the shortest possible stopping distance. The first systems were installed in the 1970’2 on semi-tractor trailers where skidding can lead to jack-knifing and serious accidents. The most noticeable result of the rapid application and release of the brakes was a significant vibration that was especially pronounced in the trailer. If you’ve ever applied the brakes hard in a vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes you probably felt the pulsing in the brake pedal. This vibration is greatly amplified in a large truck. In fact, during one of the early tests of the system, a truck fully loaded with bags of ball bearings went into a panic stop from 60 miles per hour. The system performed perfectly but the vibrations broke open several of the sacks and coated the test track with ball bearings. Early on, truckers complained of the noise and vibration more as an embarrassment when they inadvertently braked too hard and activated the system. But the systems have proved themselves and are a standard feature on trucks and cars today and it would be difficult to find a driver that doesn’t have a positive opinion of them. Although the concept of anti-lock braking systems is simple, implementation is not straightforward at all. We tend to forget how harsh the automotive environment is for electrical systems. Automobiles are expected to perform without problems in temperatures ranging from -40 degrees F to 140 degrees F. Battery voltages can range from a few volts under cold starting or battery failure condition to 50 volts or more when other failures occur. This doesn’t count electrical surges and noise cause by other equipment. Sensors mounted on wheels are subjected to mud, snow, ice and water not to mention gas, oil and road debris. Safety systems such as brakes must not fail under any or all of these conditions. If a failure does occur, the brakes must continue to function so that normal stopping can occur. But these problems were overcome and as the power and speed of computers has increased, the capabilities and reliability of the braking systems have also improved. It is a tribute to the design talents of automotive engineers that such systems are commonplace on today’s vehicles.

Squealing could be caused by a number of things.1) Dust in the drums. As the shoes wear down, the dust produced builds up in the drums. This could cause squealing when braking.2) Cheap linings. Low-cost linings do not withstand the heat build up well after repeated stops, especially in city driving. When the linings get hot they are known to squeal. This is also accompanied by reduced braking and increased braking effort on the driver’s part. That is, you need more distance to come to a stop and the brake pedal does not feel as firm as it should. And the driver does not feel as confident when braking. Basically, the heat produced with cheap linings causes the linings to glaze. Thus the squealing, and the decreasing braking efficiency.3) Hard linings. This is a situation more common with buses, trucks, taxis and the like. The harder lining does not break down as easily as the regular linings (also the cheaper linings). Thus there is more squawking when coming to a stop. Also, the drums wear more, as they are taking more of the wear than the linings do compared with using regular linings.4) Other causes include distorted brake shoes, bent backing plate, broken or weak brake shoe return springs or retaining springs, or saturated linings (caused by leaking cylinders). News source: AllPar

There is a product on the market that is having excellent success with sealing a leaking head gasket K&W engine block sealant I have heard several reports of successful sealing of head gasket leaks as to how long they will last the jury is still out-Do not follow the instructions but instead. Flush with clear water drain all fluids from the engine and radiator this works best if you use some type of extraction system. Add the product and top off with plain water. Drive for 500 miles being sure some of these are highway miles but without to much of a load IE no long hill climbs. Refill with the proper AF mixture for your area and road test wouldn’t hurt to stop by the church for a little help. Actually you will probably before this as the leak should stop before the 500 miles. Remember the engine has no freeze or overheating protection during the 500 miles. Good Luck I have heard of some excellent results using this method.

Several problems lately with repeat failures of modules igniters and a few PCMWhenever any of these items are replaced due to failure, usually a no start condition a through check of the coil or coil packs rotor, cap and plug wires if so equipped the excessive voltage produced by failure of any of these items will take the route of least resistance and fry any of the above components.If a PCM fails also check the injectors many of the internment drive ability problems are caused by a injector with excessive resistance or partially plugged after replacing an injector check for excessive carbon build upOne more hint on a tune up include cleaning the air intake this will eliminate future problems

FORT WORTH — Mike Toombs prides himself on his auto shop being able to fix ailing vehicles.That’s why he would rather do almost anything than send a vehicle brought into his Fort Worth shop to a dealership’s service center.But with more computer technology going into cars — and the costs of equipment needed to understand the computer codes — there are times he has no other choice.”Sometimes it comes to a point where, if it doesn’t set a code, I have no way of watching what the engine is doing,” said Toombs, owner of Mike’s Brake and Alignment Shop. “With the equipment I have, I can only go so far.”He and other independent mechanics across the nation face a similar problem in fixing newer vehicles: diagnostic computer systems, installed as required under the Clean Air Act, that use some proprietary codes to identify vehicles’ problems.Mechanics can buy costly equipment and subscribe to Internet sites or manuals to decipher many of the codes, but some still can only be read by the dealerships. News source: Boston>com A group of lawmakers, including U S Representative Joe Barton, a Texas Republican, say that’s not fair to consumers.They introduced a bill, the Motor Vehicle Owner’s Right to Repair Act, to try to counter such problems. If approved, the measure would direct the Federal Trade Commission to draw up rules giving independent repair shops, and vehicle owners themselves, access to the same information as franchised dealerships, according to Barton’s office.”Consumers have long valued the ability to choose where to have their automobiles serviced and repaired,” Barton spokeswoman Karen Modlin said. “Before the introduction of . . . [this”> technology, independent shops and franchise dealerships were essentially on a level playing field when it came to the ability to service and repair cars.”Today, independent repair shops are facing obsoleteness due to a lack of information necessary to operate on vehicles,” she said. “A decrease in competition threatens to drive up the costs to consumers.”If the measure doesn’t pass, consumers will lose, independent mechanics say.Barton and others say the bill would help mechanics because the onboard diagnostic systems control functions ranging from braking to steering.The code information, typically given to dealerships, can be difficult or costly for independent mechanics to acquire. Scanners designed to identify some of the codes can cost thousands of dollars a year for the newest version. Other available equipment is costly as well.Lawmakers say higher costs to mechanics mean higher costs to car owners.”I believe consumers need to have choice in auto repair, whether foreign or domestic, and they should be able to choose where they have the vehicle repaired,” Barton said when he testified about the bill last year. “The legislation has one purpose: putting vehicle owners in the driver’s seat when it comes to choosing where to have their car repaired.”Continued…Page 2 of 2 –Automakers have been fighting the proposal, contending that it aims to free “calibration codes” that show how parts are made. Others say the legislation simply is not needed.Ron Pyle, president of the Bedford, Texas-based Automotive Service Association, criticized some shops for not adding equipment or training needed to fully diagnose problems in newer vehicles.Although his group initiated the bill several years ago, it now opposes the measure because, he said, automakers provide much of the information needed at an affordable rate.”It’s just the cost of doing business,” Pyle said. “A lot of shops have not made adjustments. . . . They somehow believe the car should be less sophisticated or less secure and perhaps the technology will go backwards. That’s not likely to happen.”The Tire Industry Association, meanwhile, argues that the bill is needed, saying that a “handshake agreement” between the automotive association and auto manufacturers to provide information doesn’t guarantee that it will be affordable.”If these manufacturers plan to keep their end of the agreement and make information accessible and affordable to independent service providers, this legislation only backs up their commitment to the automotive service industry,” wrote Roy Littlefield, executive vice president of the Bowie, Md.-based organization, in a statement on the group’s website.”The fact that these manufacturers oppose this legislation causes me to question their commitment to the agreement and forces [the tire association”> to keep supporting the legislation.”The Automotive Aftermarket Industry Association also supports the measure.And if it doesn’t pass this year, they hope it will be reintroduced next year.”Nearly every system on today’s vehicles is controlled by computers,” said Aaron Lowe, vice president of governmental affairs for the association, based in Bethesda, Md. “The use of computers is likely to increase dramatically over the next several years.”While these computers provide both safety, entertainment, and drivability benefits for car owners, it also provides the opportunity for car companies to lock in maintenance and service business for their new car dealers,” he said. “Currently 70 to 75 percent of car owners use independent shops once their new car warranty has expired

How do you know if your car needs a front end alignment? Vibrations, shimmy, and shaking felt in the steering wheel are usually not a sign of needing a front end alignment. A front end alignment, or four wheel alignment as it is commonly referred to these days due to the fact that the rear end of the vehicle can also be adjusted, does just what the name implies align, or line up the direction of the wheels so the vehicle is pointed in a straight line. Caster, camber, and toe are terms used to describe the direction of the wheel in relation to the body of the vehicle. The front of the tire can be pointed in toward the center of the vehicle thus “toed in.” When the front of the tire is pointed outward, it is referred to as “toed out.” Both of these problems can quickly wear down the tread of a tire and can cause a “pull” in one direction of the front end. The top of the wheel can also lean in toward the center of the vehicle or lean out away from the vehicle, causing a camber problem. This situation can also cause tire wear and a pull to one direction in the front end. Caster measures the relationship of the left and right wheels to each other. If one wheel is farther forward or back from the other wheel, then there is a caster problem. Caster will usually not cause tire wear, but will cause a pull in one direction, and this problem is commonly found on wrecked vehicles.So what causes shimmy and shakes in the front end? The biggest culprit is an out-of-balance or out-of-round tire. As the tread on the tire wears, it will need to be re-balanced to evenly distribute the weight of the tire and the wheel. To do this, small lead weight is attached to the outside of the wheel and a machine is used to spin the tire and wheel to check balance. Tires should be balanced and rotated every 12,000 miles (approximately every four oil changes) to ensure even tire wear and extend tread life. Out-of-round means the tire has worn unevenly and cannot be balanced. An out-of-round tire will have to be replaced. I have even seen new tires that were out-of-round due to a manufacturing defect. News source: Trusty mechanic

heard a story on my local NPR station about a place in Houston where car owners can have the air in their tires replaced with nitrogen at a cost of $100. This service is advertised as a fuel economy enhancement because nitrogen diffuses through the tire at a slower rate than air, and so the tires stay at the proper pressure longer. Is this a scam, or what? — Mark Ray: Yes. And a very clever one at that. In fact, my brother’s on the phone right now seeing if we can get the local nitrogen-transfusion franchise around here. Tom: Their claim that nitrogen keeps your tire pressure more constant is actually correct. But their reasoning is wacko. It has nothing to do with diffusion of air through the rubber. Ray: The reason nitrogen pressure stays more constant than air pressure is because air contains water vapor, and so it expands less predictably than nitrogen. There’s a different percentage of water vapor in the air on any given day (a k a the humidity), so you never know exactly how much tire expansion you’ll get from the water vapor. Tom: It’s not enough expansion for you or me to notice, but some race-car drivers notice it. Formula One (i.e., Indy 500) racers use nitrogen in their tires because when you’re traveling around an oval track at 200 mph, you want your tire pressure to be entirely predictable. They even “stagger” the tire pressure on those cars, making the outside tires a little fuller than the inside tires to keep the car turning inward. And at those speeds, an eighth of an inch in tire height can make a huge difference. Ray: But for you and me (and everyone else reading this column today), Mark, it makes absolutely no difference at all. And it’s simply not worth it (unless, of course, you can steal the nitrogen from work!). Tom: Seriously, you can keep your tire pressure constant enough for street and highway driving by simply checking it periodically. News source: Car talk