Fluid changes to do or not to do is the question. I am going to try and clear the mystery about when or if to change fluids. I know many are not going to agree with my ideas but then I am used to that.Engine Oil: At the max every 5000 miles or 90 days. If you put on a lot of highway miles you can extend this or if you do a lot of stop & go driving or idling then shorten it. Synthetic oil is a different set of requirements. Changing the filter and adding a quart every 5000 miles and a total change at 2nd or 3rd filter change. I can’t leave the oil in for that long it just doesn’t feel right, so I use regular oil. I do put synthetic in my wife’s car in the winter so it starts easier as it sits outside all day and it can get cold here. Power Steering Fluid: Anytime you do a repair IE pump, gear or hose. Do a complete change not just the reservoir. IF the fluid looks black change it. Transmission Fluid: Every 50,000 change the fluid and filter I am not a big fan of flushes but when you change the fluid change it all not just the converter. If you pull a trailer be sure you have a cooler and change it more often depending on how often you pull a trailer. Or anytime it looks bad or smells. When you change it check the pan for filings if there are sell the vehicle, or be prepared for a huge tranny repair bill. Constant transmissions are a whole new ball game. Pay strict attention to the owner’s manual nothing will destroy these transmissions like dirty fluid. From what I have seen they are going to be expensive to maintain.Brake fluid: Any time you do a break repair or have an ABS problem. If you don’t have ABS the repair change is not as important but I still recommend here again if you do it yourself it is cheap. I have cured many a ABS problem by changing fluid.Differential: Only if a repair is done or on a 4X4 I would recommend synthetic. Transfer Case: On older models only when repaired or dirty here again synthetic helps. On newer models with electronics check the owner’s manual and be sure to check the owner’s manual for correct fluid.Manual transmission: Only when repairing or if your owner’s manual calls for it. Be sure to use the correct fluid.Hints: If you have questions about the condition of PS or tranny fluid place a few drops on a white paper towel it will give a good indication of how dirty it is. When changing tranny or PS. Remove the return hose so you get all the fluid out. Add a can of additive; to the tranny and PS I use a half bottle in the PS. I prefer lube gard none other. Lube gard may make your fluid look black. Lucas makes a good product also but I don’t have a lot of experience except with the oil and that does an excellent job. Many of these jobs can be messy but you can save a considerable amount of money by doing them your self.Be certain you are using the right fluid if not you can do damsge.

Here in the North Country we have about 8 hours of sunlight this time of year so lights are very important. We are also having the heaviest snow fall on record for December add that to quite a few cloudy days and you need your lights pretty much all the time. Checking your headlamps after driving you notice one is out so you replace the bulb which can take from a few minutes to a hour depending on your vehicle, if they are easy to replace I usually replace both at the same time or if they are a chore I may heat the garage and then I would replace them both. Depending upon if I can find them on sale I have been using the Xenon lamps recently have them in one vehicle and so far they are OK. There are other things to check when you replace the bulb. In 1983 headlamp regulations were amended to allow composite headlamps to replace the sealed beamsWith the sealed beam lamp you replaced the bulb lens and reflective surface. Today when you replace the bulb none of these are replaced so they should be checked. If the reflective surface is tarnished or discolored the entire housing must be replaced which can be expensive unless you can find a serviceable used one. A tarnished or discolored reflective surface is usually an indication of a leak so the housing will have to be replaced in time anyway. If the lens is cloudy or scratched there are several alternatives. There are several polishes on the market which I have used and they all do a good job. I was amazed at how they sharpened up the look of a vehicle after I use them on the taillights. If they are badly deteriorated there is a restorative kit and several shops are advertising repair again what I have seen all are a great alternative. The most important item is to check your lights. A manager of a Jiffy Lube told me once if he could get his help to check all the lights he could afford an addition to his house. I know we averaged 1 in 4 vehicles having a bulb out when servicing them. So check your lights and take a glance at the tire at the same time. As my Dad used to say walk around to the passenger side once in awhile and you will save a lot of headaches.

You go out one morning and it is cold I mean North Dakota cold. Wind chill in 3 digits and temp way below zero, ok I exaggerated a little, but still cold. How do I start my car that is fuel injected? My usual advice is to roll down the window reach in and start it. By doing this you will not touch the accelerator pedal and this is the correct method to start a cold car, or for that matter in any temp. This is of greater importance on any 1996 and newer vehicle but holds true for all fuel injected vehicles. You can pump the accelerator all you want and the injectors are going to do the same thing under a cold start condition. One condition to avoid is to turn the car to lock before trying to start the engine again, return the key to the off position not to lock because each time you turn the key to lock the injectors are going to provide the cylinders a extra shot of fuel thus flooding the vehicle in time.If it does flood hold the accelerator to the floor and this will stop the injectors from firing this is true for all 1996 and newer and older fuel injected vehicles.

I will be the first one to admit I have gotten behind on preparing my vehicles for winter. I did put the convertible in storage. I have finally been doing some checking and I cannot believe how they have went to pot in the summer. Evan the fluids were low on several. The wiper blades were also in need of replacement on several I just dont know where the time has gone tolately, I have never been so far behind. So herre is a short list of items to check if you have gotten behind. All fluids including anti freeze strength Belts and hoses on a 3.8 also check the heater connections Wipers and washer Lights not only if they work but the lenses and reflective Heater and defrost functioning correctly Survival kit Tires for pressure and wear Lug nuts torque(20% are found loose when removed) Spare tire including jack, wrench and anti theft socket if required Visual inspection of entire vehicle with extra attention to under the hood Phone book or a list of emergency numbers Car wash including interior Short list and I am sure I missed a few of the things you check.

What is happening to the honest repair shop do they have to rip off the public to stay in business. I hope this is not the case as the repair industry already has a poor reputation. Or is the chain repair shop going to be the only choice we have to repair our vehicles. I just don’t see why a well managed shop cannot make money fairly; the one obstacle is getting and keeping good help. Many of the techs of today, especially the good one are prima donnas and demand high dollars, which they deserve, so perhaps the only way they can afford this help is to gouge the public. There have been 2 service station/ repair shops close in my area in the past month. One was where I had my oil changed. There were honest did not give me the run around for unnecessary services (they knew I was an experienced tech having known both the owner and his Dad for years) so we had a good working relationship. They also knew I only had them change my oil because it was cheap and easier and that any other repairs I would do myself. My concern is they both treated their customers with respect and did not try to sell any unnecessary repairs. You could trust their estimates and if they said it needed to be done it probably did. With 10 cars in my immediate family I cannot do all the repairs myself I find it hard to just keep up with my own. I also field the occasional call from an old customer looking for a repair shop. My daughter took her 2001 Durango to a repair shop, oddly enough one I used to work at (under different owners) and they tried to rip her off. There are several other repair shops in my area but they all have bad reputations. So what do I do now take their vehicles in for them and sit and wait to keep an eye on the repairs, seems like a waste of time might as well do it myself. Thankfully they are all fairly new, except for a few, so except for the oils changes there are not a lot of repairs. What about the single mother who is already working 2 jobs to make ends meet and she has car problems how is going to prevent being ripped off for repairs she can’t afford but yet she needs transportation. You don’t haul a couple kids to day care and the store on public transportation. I just don’t know what the answer is and perhaps there is not one.

Not only are Americans buying fewer vehicles as Fuel prices soar, they are putting the brakes on spending to repair the rides they have.Much to the dismay of repair shops and auto-parts retailers, the fact owners are hanging on to their cars and trucks longer hasn’t meant more repairs on aging vehicles.The shock of $4-per-gallon Fuel and a bleak overall economy have drivers spending less time on the road, which means they are able to cut back on regular maintenance. Fewer miles also mean fewer accidents, eating into another major revenue stream for repair shops.Add to that the generally improved quality of vehicles, and the biggest players in automotive parts and service stand to lose billions of dollars.AutoNation Inc., the nation’s largest auto retailer, recently said a decline in parts and service was partly to blame for a 33% slide in second-quarter net income. A decline in new-vehicle sales was the biggest driver.”Consumers are more cautious, and they seem to be putting off some of their maintenance-type spending,” AutoNation Chief Operating Officer Mike Maroone said. “Discretionary repairs are being put off.”Auto retailers have come to depend more on work paid for by customers rather than through manufacturer warranties as vehicle quality has improved. Customer-paid jobs often are either maintenance work or repairs following an accident.AutoNation’s customer-paid business was down 2% in the second quarter, while the warranty business fell 5.5%.Sonic Automotive Inc. said this month that declining service and parts revenue factored into the company’s decision to cut its earnings forecast for the year. On Tuesday, Sonic reported that second-quarter earnings from continuing operations slid to $20.1 million from $28.8 million. News source: WSJ online

Smart car repairs are changing the way customers have vehicles serviced at auto body shops. The acronym SMART stands for Small, Medium Area Repair Technique. This revolutionary car repair technique is saving customers’ money by repairing only damaged areas of a vehicle. There is no longer a need to repair an entire vehicle surface for a scratch on the bumper or a dent on the door panel. All vehicles experience the need for repairs somewhere down the line.Dents and scratches can damage more than the exterior of the vehicle. There can be considerable damage done to the monetary value of the vehicle as well. For this reason, it is highly advisable that car repairs be completed as soon as possible to prevent any further damage from occurring.Smart car repair services aide fleet operators, car hire services, car dealerships and consumers in obtaining inexpensive auto body work. This can be routine maintenance or large repairs caused by big dents or other exterior vehicle damage. Many utilize the services of a smart car repair shop for touch up work for cars, vans and motorcycles.A variety of car repairs can be completed utilizing this revolutionary technique. A few items on the list include:Scratches to door panels Scratches to front and back bumpers Scratches to wheel arches Dents to any portion of the vehicle exterior Smart car repairs are not limited to the cosmetic exterior of a vehicle. Interior blemishes can also be repaired. These include rips in the upholstery, small holes in plastic trim, windscreen chips and cigarette burns to seats, dashboard or other interior structures.Repairs are limited to the damaged areas of the vehicle only. This dramatically cuts down on the cost of auto body work as it creates less time consuming repair projects. Specially designed paints and chemical based paints can be matched virtually identically to existing paint. This eliminates the need to repaint the entire vehicle for a repair job in a tiny portion of the vehicle.This special paint dries in half the time of stock auto body shop paints. Repairs are done on site and all products needed are in stock. These two components alone significantly contribute to the dramatic cost saving methods of smart car repairs.Some of the costliest auto body repairs lie in damaged or broken bumpers and spoilers. Smart car repair utilizes plastic welding and finishing techniques on the original vehicle pieces. This process eliminates the need for auto body shops to send out for replacement parts. In return, customers are not stuck paying a bill that includes costs for the down time between ordering replacement parts and having them installed on the vehicle.Moving inside the vehicle, fabrics and upholstery can be repaired without needing to remove all of the interior fabrics, vinyl and leather. Cigarette burns, stains and spills brought on by everyday vehicle use can easily be repaired at little cost to the customer.Smart car repairs are changing the way auto body shops do business in the future. News source: Delco 2007

Avert your eyes. Run for the hills. And call the National Guard. The mutants are attacking. Not from outer space, but from car factories right here on planet Earth. It’s time to don the 3-D glasses and check out some freaks of the four-wheeled variety.The list doesn’t include cars of the ‘60s or earlier, so don’t look here for Edsels and the like. And it only includes one model from the American Motors Corporation, because there’s just not room for all the mutant masterpieces from that sadly defunct company. Finally, there are no Eastern European junkers such as the Yugo or Trabant, because some targets are just too easy. News source: Read More & Pictures

With hail season here I think it is time to discuss estimating hail damage, if you take it to your insurance company or a body shop makes little difference as an adjuster will have to look at any major damage. I prefer the independent body shop as they are less likely to cut corners. Many manufactures body shops are very competitive compared to their service departments. Maintain a take charge attitude without being pushy. Remember you pay the premium and there are a lot of players in the insurance game that want your business.Bring in a clean car as it is easier to inspect and dents will be more visible.Do the inspection indoors under fluorescent lights that run from the left to the right, many dents do not show up in the sun.The estimator should be familiar with the limits of paint less dent repair. Previously repaired panels, dents close to a seam or the edge will require body repair and paint.If you think the damage is close to the value of your vehicle determine a value (Kelly Blue Book) and be ready to decide if you want to keep the vehicle or let the insurance take it. Normally they will let you keep the vehicle and pay 70 to 80% of the estimate they are usually fair as to the true retail value of the vehicle if you want to let them have it.Inspect your vehicle before paying or signing over the insurance check most body shops are easy to work with as they want to get along with the insurance companies but there is always one bad apple. Many of these hints also apply to a damaged vehicle beware of cheap aftermarket replacement parts many of these are of inferior quality.

Compared to the vehicles of a generation ago, modern cars require about as much maintenance as a yo-yo. Freedom from the oil, lube and tune merry-go-round. Most of us haven’t adjusted their thinking to new car maintenance schedules. They still run their vehicles until the dash warning lights burn out, while many, like myself, worry about running synthetic oil more than 2,500 miles without a change. The trick to a long life is giving your car the maintenance it was designed to receive. Every car is supplied with a maintenance schedule – in the owner’s manual or in a separate log book. Read it and pay attention to the normal and rough service schedules.Proper Tire Inflation and RotationTires leak naturally and need the occasional check. Under-inflated tires use excessive Fuel and wear out sooner, and overinflated are dangerous. So check them now and at least once a month. Use a good tire gauge and check the accuracy often, I use a digital to assure accuracy and a medium priced metal gauge. Wiper TalesHere’s a news flash: It’s much easier to avoid hitting things you can see. That’s why replacing your windshield wipers often is a good idea.Tune-Up’sThere are no more “tune-ups.” Valves no longer need adjusting, ignition timing is computer controlled and there are no carburetors. About all that’s left of the old tune-up are the spark plugs. These are often good for 100,000 miles, so don’t change parts just to change parts. Instead, save up for those big 60,000- and 120,000-mile services when the timing belt, spark plug wires and coolant are due for replacement. If you have Dexcool do it now.Octane Requirements Higher-than-required octane does not yield more power or mileage, only oil company profits. Here again red the owner’s manual.Oil Change TimingOil changes every 3,000 miles used to be required jobs, just like cleaning the accumulated fuzz from record player needles or defrosting freezers. Today, advances in engine design and lubricants make oil changes something to be done when the schedule calls for it, not when granddad says it’s time. Some cars call for 5,000-mile change intervals, some up to 15,000-mile. Follow the schedule and use the oil called for by the manufacturer.Tired TiresTires wear out, but they also time out. The tire industry says tires are toast after six years. It all depends on heat, sunlight and ozone conditions. If you’re not sure how old your tires are, a tire shop can read the date code stamped into the sidewall.Dirty Air FilterSemi-clogged air filters hurt fuel economy for the same reason you don’t like to run with a potato in your mouth. The question is when is your filter dirty? Under a Norman Rockwell schedule of small-town errand running and church duty, an air filter might not see much grit. But grimy city surface streets or just looking at a dirt road on a map are often enough to overwhelm air filters. This one is about conditions. If you go near dirt, the air filter may need changing twice as often as the schedule calls for.Brakes If you notice anything different about your brakes – sound, feel or response – they are telling you to visit a mechanic. Now.Tighten Your Gas CapIs the Check Engine light on? Then make sure the gas cap is on tightly before calling the dealer. No joke, this is one of the most common ways of setting off your car’s diagnostic system, since a loose gas cap defeats the fuel system’s venting arrangement.The Garage Is for Parkinglet’s review. Your house is your most valuable investment. Your car is likely your second most valuable investment. If you’re paying all that money, then why are you storing junk? Pitch that junk and get the car in the garage!