Gassing up your car is about to take on a new meaning.Fill your tires with pure nitrogen and you’ll get better gas mileage, advocates of the practice say. Your tires will be safer, and they’ll last longer.A colorless, odorless, tasteless gas that makes up about 78 percent of the Earth’s atmosphere, nitrogen could cost you as much as $10 a tire. But what you save on gas, tire replacement and peace of mind will make up the difference, according to the pitch.Already, retailers like Costco and Olin Mott stores offer nitrogen, and Pep Boys has test-marketed it.Starting Saturday, buyers of all new cars sold at select Crown dealerships in the Tampa Bay area will find their tires filled with nitrogen. Eventually, all 13 dealerships will offer it.The thinking is that nitrogen’s larger molecules prevent it from seeping out of a tire as quickly as air. So inflating tires with nearly pure nitrogen – which has been done for years in race cars, commercial airliners and long-distance trucks – allows them to retain correct pressure longer. News source: SP Times Pressure is vital because a properly inflated tire is a safer, more efficient tire. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration says most drivers can improve gas mileage by nearly 3 percent by keeping their vehicle tires within the recommended pressure range. The government also estimates the nation loses more than 2 million gallons of gas every day due to underinflated tires.Enter nitrogen. Chemical No. 7 on your periodic chart of the elements. At anywhere from $2 to $10 per tire.Besides attracting customers and addressing safety concerns, it’s a way to fight inflation. Or rather, the lack of it, said Jim Myers, Crown’s chief operating officer.”The whole theory is that air bleeds through the tire slowly,” Myers said. “And if someone isn’t diligent, any tire will lose air over time. But because of nitrogen’s properties, that doesn’t happen as quickly.”Myers said Crown will also offer to replace air with nitrogen on any vehicle for $39.What happens if tire pressure drops and the driver is not near a garage or tire store that sells nitrogen?Topping off with compressed air won’t hurt, tire experts say, and the tire can be purged and refilled with nitrogen later.So should motorists feel … pressured to put nitrogen in their tires?”It sounds like it has mostly positive points,” said Randy Bly, director of community relations for AAA Auto Club South in Tampa. “Nitrogen helps keep tires cooler under open highway conditions, and it’s less likely to leak out, so that would help with fuel mileage.”The only negative would be the cost. But it may well be worth it.”Nitrogen-filled tires stay inflated about three times as long as than air-filled tires, advocates say, and while a typical tire inflated with compressed air might lose 2.7 pounds of pressure monthly, one filled with nitrogen loses 0.7 pound.But Jim Davis, public relations manager for Goodyear Tire and Rubber, says replacing air with nitrogen is “a tough call.””The objective is to have the correct air pressure,” Davis said. “And over time, minute amounts of air do leak out.”There is no harm to the tire from using regular air. But we urge people to check their tires monthly.”What happens, Davis said, is that decreased air pressure flattens a tire, creating more surface area between the tire and the road. That added friction can make the engine work harder and cause tires to overheat, possibly leading to a blowout.”More tire surface means it takes more power to roll that tire,” Davis said. “A correctly inflated tire is going to roll more easily.”Checking tires for correct pressure also has a side benefit.”When you’re down there, look at the tires,” Davis said. “You may notice a nail or tread that is wearing abnormally, and you can catch it before the problem becomes worse.”At least one tire manufacturer is even more skeptical about the advantages of nitrogen in the family car.Michelin officials recommend nitrogen only for tires used “in a high risk environment and/or when the user wants to reduce the consequences of a potential abnormal overheating of the tire-wheel assembly (for example in some aircraft applications),” according to a company statement.But for all other tires in normal use, nitrogen “is not required and does not necessarily bring the expected benefit.”It is true that the physical properties of nitrogen reduce the pressure loss due to the natural permeability of the materials of the tire and thus the broad use of nitrogen will in general assist motorists with pressure maintenance.”Nevertheless, the existence of several other possible sources of leaks (tire/rim interface, valve, valve/rim interface and the wheel) prevents the guarantee of better pressure maintenance for individuals using nitrogen inflation.”So we can save the expense if we just check our tires regularly.The trouble is, we don’t.As recently as two years ago, government and tire industry surveys showed close to 30 percent of cars, vans, pickups and SUVs on the road had at least one tire that was substantially underinflated, at least 8 psi below the recommended minimum pressure.But high gas prices and consumer education may be cutting into that number. According to a survey by Uniroyal Tire in mid August, nearly 50 percent of Americans said they are now checking the air pressure in their tires once a month.Still, that leaves millions of unchecked tires.”Most people don’t take care of their tires on a regular basis,” said Dave Zielasko, editor and publisher of Tire Business , an Akron, Ohio, trade publication. “Tires are one of the most underappreciated part of the vehicle. People take them for granted. But the reality is they do need to be checked.”Remember, it’s the only part of the vehicle that touches the road.”
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In Freezing Temperatures, a Block Heater Will Save Gas
Using a block heater in freezing winter temperatures can improve the fuel economy of your vehicle by 10 percent of more. A block heater warms the coolant, which warms the engine block and lubricants. The engine will then start easily and reach peak operating conditions more quickly. You don’t need to leave the block heater plugged in overnight. It only takes two hours at most to warm the engine. For convenience, consider using an automatic outlet timer to switch the block heater on an hour or two before you need to start your vehicle.Crew Cheif Note On a older cast iron V8 I would suggest a 4 hour + on time News source: canada on line
Anti Lock Brake
Anti-Lock Brake System Service Precautions from Raybestos [Courtesy 1998 Brake Parts Inc. & Online Technologies Corporation, Raybestos, all rights reserved”> 1.Always refer to the appropriate anti-lock service manual before attempting to service any portion of the brake system. 2.Warning: Some ABS systems store brake fluid in an accumulator under high pressure. Failure to depressurize these types of anti-lock systems before servicing can cause physical injury! The majority of these ABS systems can be depressurized by simply turning off the ignition and firmly depressing the brake pedal between 20 and 40 times. Check service manual for exact number. 3.Use the proper DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid specified by the vehicle manufacturer. This can be found on the master cylinder cap or reservoir body. DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid can not be used in any ABS system. 4.Do not hammer or pry on wheel speed sensors and/or sensor rings to adjust the air gap. These components are delicate and can easily be damaged! 5.ABS and other on-board computer can be easily damaged by high electrical system voltage. Do not attempt to jump start an ABS equipped vehicle with a Fuel powered booster or 110 volt type battery charger on the fast charge/ boost setting. Slow charge the battery first before attempting to start. If this is impractical, disconnect the negative battery cable before fast charging the battery. 6.All four tires must be of the same size and type. Failure to observe this rule can cause the ABS and/or Traction Control system to disengage and the warning light to come on. Follow the vehicle manufactures recommendations before installing any optional tire sizes. 7.Never unplug or reconnect any electrical ABS component with the ignition on. This can cause a current surge and damage one or more of the system components. 8.When installing any “add on” electrical accessories’ (CB’s, Telephones, Stereos, etc.), it is important that any antennas or other wiring be located away from the ABS computer and sensor wiring. A magnetic field is generated as current flows through this additional wiring. The magnetic field that is created produces electro-magnetic interference (EMI) that can affect the signals from the wheel speed sensor to the ABS computer. 9.When electrical welding on a vehicle, it is recommended that all of the computers be disconnected from the wiring harness to prevent possible damage. Care should be taken not to damage the connectors. 10.When replacing unitized wheel bearings, half shafts, steering knuckles, or any other component that could affect the air gap between the wheel speed sensor and sensor ring, then the air gap must be checked. 11.When servicing disc brakes, open the bleeder screws and vent the brake fluid, if it is necessary to push the caliper pistons in. There is sediment that naturally collects in calipers over a period of time. This sediment, if allowed to flow back into the master cylinder along with the brake fluid, can possibly damage the ABS hydraulic unit. [Editor’s Note: see above notes on clamping the rubber brake lines.”> ——————————————————————————– News source: Raybestos
True Cost To Own
You’ve narrowed your choices to two new cars, but you can’t seem to decide which one is really the better deal.The purchase price of each car is nearly the same. The features are similar, and you like the way they both look. Still, a nagging feeling tells you that there must be a meaningful difference between them, even if it’s not readily apparent during the purchase process.Your intuition is right on the money. And now there is a new tool that reveals the hidden costs — all the costs — associated with buying, owning and operating a car over a five-year-period. It’s called True Cost to Own (TCO for short)Read Full Article News source: Edmonds
Chrysler Transmssion Problems
This page is designed to help you to quickly and cheaply fix your “bad” Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth four-speed automatic transmission for your front wheel drive car or minivan. Here are the most likely culprits, each of which can probably be fixed either by you or by a local mechanic for under $100:Incorrect transmission fluid (cost: $40-60) – most common problem! Solenoid pack (cost: about $60-$150 plus labor. May just be clogged.) Computer needs retraining (cost: time) Ground strap broken/missing – may be misdiagnosed as needing a new transmission and/or computer! (cost: $10) Bad input sensor (according to D. Philbrook, very common!) – “Can be seen on scan tool screen as input rpm –if it’s 0, replace the sensor.” Computer firmware needs upgrade (cost: Chrysler dealer should do this for free; may be up to $200) Incorrect filter used Loose electrical connection (cost: time) Leaking seals (cost: rebuilding) Torque converter problems – see the bump shift section Note: if you are having the “bump shift” see the bump shift section, below News source: ALLPAR As detailed in a 1995 technical service bulletin, 18-24-95, many issues (including the infamous “bump shift”) can be resolved by updating the computer’s flash ROM (where possible), and carefully going through a retraining process. Dealers can and should do this free of charge before any other work is undertaken (except of course for the transmission fluid change). (See below for the retraining process).Michael Richards wrote: The Transmission Control Module (TCM) is another item that deserves mention. I found a TSB indicating a flash upgrade (software?) was needed to eliminate hard/erratic shift problems after 2 dealers told me I needed a $1600 transmission rebuild. I insisted they perform the upgrade first. The TCM refused to accept the upgrade so I had them replace it (they did it under protest). Now my transmission works like new. It cost ‘just’ $200. Something to consider.[If the transmission fails after takeoff, check”> the electrical terminal that bolts into the computer housing that is mounted on the transmission. This is an electrical terminal and it bolts on to the computer box that is below the radiator fan and mounted on the transmission. Because of the poor design of this terminal it becomes a well and holds water. This happend to me on my 1992 3.3 Voyager. The transmission would not change gears without turning off the ignition to reset the computer. I used air to blow it out and the problem was solved. [I discovered it when replacing the sensors based on the advice on your site.”> Webmaster note: Chrysler integrated their engine and transmission computers later in the decade.
Rear Defroster repair
It snowed last night. I mean it SNOWED. Your car is buried under seven inches of snow. You open the door, start the engine and turn on the rear window defroster. It takes a little while to clear the snow off your car and by that time the engine has warmed up enough to clear the windshield and started to clear the side windows. You look at the rear window and see that there are only a couple of clear strips and the rest of the window is still clouded over and impossible to see through. Fixing small breaks in a defroster grid is fairly easy to do. You can go to NAPA, Auto Zone or any of the big auto parts store and get a rear window defroster repair kit. The alternative: climb in the back seat and scrape the rear window with your small window scraper And that is not really a good idea. News source: About Auto Repair Warning! The defroster grid is silk-screened on, literally painted on to the glass. If you ever painted window trim you know it doesn’t take much to scrape paint off glass. The defroster grid is easy to damage and the grids that are scratched will not work because continuity is broken. Any hard object such as furniture, boxes and toys can scratch the defroster grid. A simple credit card is enough to damage the grid. This can be prevented by not jamming stuff into your SUV or van and having it shift into the rear window. The only thing that should touch the window glass and defroster grid is a soft cloth and some glass cleaner. If you must scrub, do it gently and in the direction of the grid, not across it. Replacing the rear window to repair a defroster gird is the last thing you want to do. A curved style of rear window on most cars can be several hundred dollars and for a SUV or mini-van, over $1000.00. Include installation and it’s a lot more. Don’t bother to submit the bill to your insurance company either; they’ll just say, “Sorry, window glass is not covered.” Doesn’t Work At All Let’s say the rear window defroster doesn’t work at all. If you have been hanging around here any length of time you know the first thing to check is the fuse. Rear window defrosters draw a ton of current so if you have a fuse that’s too low, it won’t last long. If the fuse looks good, check it with a test light or voltmeter. You should have battery voltage on both sides. If the fuse and voltage tests are both good, the problem is in the wiring or in the defroster grid itself. Look at the sides of the grid. There is a terminal on each side and sometimes they fall or get knocked off. If one or both have come of and are just hanging there are two ways to repair them. You can glue them back on or you can solder them back on. If you know how to solder and have a 200-watt soldering gun or iron, you can solder the terminals back on to the defroster grid. A third hand is very handy in doing this so get the spouse to come out and help you for a while. Most times there is a metal backing strip below the silk screening and attached to the glass. Clean the area well, alcohol works best, and use 60-40 rosin core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER!! It will eat away all the metal parts over time and leave you with nothing. Make sure your soldering gun or iron is hot before you solder the terminals. Work as quickly as you can to keep the glass from getting too hot and possibly cracking. If you don’t think you have the soldering skills necessary or are just afraid of cracking a very expensive window, there is an alternative. Some dealers and larger auto parts stores sell a special electrically conductive epoxy to glue the defroster terminals back on. If it’s cold out, you’ll need to work in a garage that is heated and the whole car warmed up to above 65° F. To do this with the epoxy you need to clean the area, again, alcohol works best. Using tape, mask off the area so you don’t get epoxy where you don’t want it. Read the package directions and mix up a small amount of the hardener and epoxy. You don’t need a lot for this. Now put a little epoxy on the defroster grid and a little on the bottom of the terminal. Place it in position and use a toothpick to hold it in place until the epoxy sets up. This usually takes about 10 or 15 minutes or so. You can dampen the end of your finger with water and move the epoxy around to make it look better if you want. If you do this you have to do it in the first minute or two or forget it
Serpentine Belts
With cold weather approaching I feel it is time for a discussion of serpentine belts.First I have very rarely seen a belt fail from wear. Failure is usually caused by an idler pulley or a component failure.Cracks do not cause belt failure in fact many manufacturers have grooves in there belts to cool them.Under certain conditions these small cracked pieces can come loose and stick in the groove and cause a belt to come off the pulleys but again this is rare.So when is it time to replace a belt.Anytime it is saturated with any fluid IE antifreeze power steering or transmission.When it looks or feels brittle or hard to the touch.When the cracks exceed more than about 4 to an inch throughout the belt it is time to think about a new belt.Today’s belts are one of the many functions that maintain today’s engines and many are also very difficult to replace so when in doubt get a second opinion and replace it but they are also expensive and oversold at many repair facilities.Belt squeal is also a problem that may require replacing the belt but it is not always the problem.If the noise is on start up turn off the AC or defroster and it may stop the noise.Check for foreign material on the belt Lave soap on the belt will clean it the pumice in the soap cleans.( but use caution)The idler loosing spring tension or being frozen in one position will also cause noisesDO NOT USE belt spray of any kind one of the few uses for WD 40 is to spray on a belt to see if it is the cause of the noise. It will wear of quickly.Once again they are highly oversold so buyer beware that you are not paying for quick lube managers new condo in Florida.
Anti Freeze Compatible
Several ads in the flyers recently regarding anti freeze that is compatible with all types . Be careful of these they may cause problems in time. Do not mix types of anti freeze it may cause a jelling problem or increase the incidence of rust and or parasitic voltage. Check your owner’s manual and use only the type of AF that it calls for. Also keep a close watch on GM lifetime it can breakdown sooner than advertised. Check the Parasitic voltage in your AF you will be surprised at how much voltage is present in the coolant no wonder it attracts rust and other gunk. To check it either use a lab scope or a good voltmeter simply go from the AF to a good ground. Record this reading and check it periodically to see if it is increasing if so flush and fill time. The only exception is the environmental friendly type this as far as I have seen does not cause any problems still don’t mix only use for a complete refill. Check your owner’s manual and use the type it calls for also do the same with all fluids mainly transmission and power steering. Be extra cautious with the newer Chrysler type 3 and 4 many shops are saying the addition of a friction modifier will work but this is not the case use only the type called for by your owners manual.
NASCAR Season
The season is over and JJ won I really do not have a favorite driver( Mark Martin but just because of his years and no championship) but I was hoping JJ would not pull it out I was at Daytona when he cheated and won and that was a major and obvious change I am sure he will make a great champion and the Hendricks team deserved it Childress deserved the Busch win I wonder where Harvick would placed in the Cup if they would have not put so much effort into Busch Oh well 89 days to Daytona and it should be an interesting year Toyota on board and the new car premiere and many driver and sponsor changes Crew Cheif
Gas Saving Devices
With gas prices still high, readers have asked us to weigh in on products that promise better fuel economy. We tested three: Fuel Genie, Platinum Gas Saver, and Tornado. Our advice: Don’t waste your money. They don’t work. This isn’t news. We’ve tested such devices over the years and have not found any that improve fuel economy. The Environmental Protection Agency, whose Web site lists scores of devices that the agency has tested in the past 30 years, including the Platinum Gas Saver, has had similar results News source: Consumer Reports The Fuel Genie, $90, which promises more power and better gas mileage, is a plastic device with curved blades that fits inside the air-intake hose. The airflow is supposed to allow for better performance. But in our tests with a 2004 Toyota Tundra and a 2004 Dodge Stratus, we saw no significant improvement in performance or fuel economy. The Tornado, $70, is a similar device made of stainless steel. It is the same product we tested for a July 1999 report, when we said it didn’t improve power or gas mileages in two test vehicles. The Platinum Gas Saver, $119, includes tubing and a plastic reservoir containing liquid. It is the same device we tested for our report in February 2001. You connect it to a vacuum line leading to the intake manifold. The manufacturer says that microscopic platinum particles from the liquid are sucked through the line, helping your car burn gas more efficiently and cleanly. In our previous tests, there were no changes in fuel economy after we installed the device in two test vehicles. The bottom line: The best way to get the most from a tank of gas is to follow the vehicle manufacturer’s service schedule.