A bout with the flu gave me a few days to catch up on my reading and found a few interesting factsFuel pump power draw should be 10 amps per 10# of pressure finally someone put this in writing.Also a majority of pump failures are caused by the brushes start jumping off the armature and cause the connection to break the spring completes the connection for a short period but eventually burns off. This explains why if you get a lab scope that looks like a sic opera it is the brush jumping and leads to eventually failure.Many of the new voltmeters can not perform voltage drop tests due to the method of reading more prevalent on the cheaper models(more on this later have to do some research)Short trips that do not sufficient warm up the engine will cause rust buildup in the injectors when using ethanol fuel. Are there any decent major fuels out there any more I use BP(AMOCO Silver) but I am having doubts about that. Crew ChiefPS several Emails and phone calls told me I should also add if the draw is low it could be a worn pump so then check the pressure and volume.A short cut to check the fuel system is to unhook the FPR and snap open the throttle the pressure should drop 1 1/2 # anymore and you have a problemPS Hope to do more of this but wont wait for a flu bug
All posts by John
ESPN & NASCAR
All NASCAR Races on ESPN to be in High-Def..including In-Car Cams: NASCAR fans are welcoming back an old friend this year with ESPN’s return to coverage of the sport, but the old friend is going to have a sophisticated new look when live NASCAR coverage resumes next month. ESPN and ESPN on ABC’s coverage of the Nextel Cup Series and Busch Series will be the most technologically advanced programming in the history of televised motorsports, according to Jed Drake, senior vice president and executive producer for ESPN. “ESPN’s presentation of NASCAR will be state of the art at every level of production,” said Drake. ”We have built a production plan that will provide a truly exceptional presentation to our viewers.”All NASCAR on ESPN races and associated programming will be totally produced in High Definition, a first for televised motorsports. Of the approximately 60 to 75 cameras that will be used by ESPN in televising races, more than used in any other sport, all will be HD. ESPN, a pioneer in the development of in-car cameras during its 20 seasons of NASCAR coverage from 1981-2000, has been preparing for use of HD in-car cameras in advance of the Busch Series season-opening Orbitz 300 from Daytona on ESPN2 February 17. The camera systems had to be re-engineered for HD, as did the camera power and transmission systems within the race cars, all while maintaining a delicate balance to not add weight to the cars and possibly affect their performance. ESPN’s NASCAR coverage will also include HD cameras providing other interesting points of view, including grass cam, wall cam, crew cams, pit overhead cams, blimps and multiple robotic cameras at various points around the tracks. In addition to 100% use of HD cameras, ESPN will also produce NASCAR’s top two series with Sportvision technology, which Rich Feinberg, senior coordinating producer, said no TV network has ever used in Busch Series coverage. Sportvision utilizes satellite technology to create on-screen “pointers” to designate specific cars within a pack, helping viewers distinguish their favorite driver’s car, lead-lap cars and produces telemetry from the race cars to show speeds, braking and other compelling information to viewers. All cars in the races will carry Sportvision transmitters.ESPN’S NASCAR FUN FACTS:6 — Tractor-trailer rigs used each event (including pit studio, in-car camera trailer, custom office trailer)10 — Number of months ESPN’s NASCAR fleet will be on the road (February-November)26 — Tracks ESPN’s mobile fleet will visit in 200738 — NASCAR events ESPN’s mobile fleet will attend in 200752 — NASCAR races to be televised live by ESPN, ESPN2 and ESPN on ABC in 2007 (full 35-race Busch Series season, final 17 Nextel Cup events)60-75 — HD Cameras used by ESPN to televise a NASCAR race (including in-car cameras)200 — Credentialed ESPN personnel working on NASCAR each week78,000 — Weight in pounds of ESPN traveling studio for NASCAR Countdown showsESPN commissioned the creation of four of what Feinberg said are “the most sophisticated mobile production units ever built in the history of TV motorsports, designed just for our NASCAR coverage.” Among the innovations within the ESPN-branded units is a radio room in which radio transmissions of all 43 teams in NASCAR races will be recorded during races, allowing producers to be able to lift specific transmissions of any driver or team at any time. “I call it the ultimate TiVo,” said Feinberg.For its NASCAR Countdown studio shows that will precede all NASCAR race telecasts, ESPN will originate from the most technologically-advanced traveling studio ever used in sports television. The studio, which weighs nearly 78,000 pounds and will travel to 26 NASCAR tracks this season, will allow ESPN to bring the look and feel of its Bristol, Conn.,-based studio shows such as SportsCenter and Sunday NFL Countdown to the tracks.The mobile pit studio will be outfitted with state-of-the-art LED lighting, three robotic HD cameras and a dramatic, contoured, video display fronting the anchor desk. Situated near the pits at every track, the studio will be elevated 14 feet while in use and 30 foot glass windows will give viewers a look at the cars, grandstands and pageantry prior to the race start. “We want to show the scope and size of the sport,” Feinberg said. Feinberg also said ESPN will have an exciting new animation, graphic and musical package featuring Aerosmith.(ESPN PR)(1-24-2007) News source: Jayski.com
Ford VP gives up Jet
Perception can be a lot more powerful than reality. Mark Fields, chief of Ford Motor’s North American division, found that out the hard way this month, when he was forced to give up his weekly corporate jet trips from Motown to his Florida home.Fields succumbed to pressure from Ford Motor (nyse: F – news – people ) workers and dealers about his increasingly well-publicized perk and asked that it be removed from his contract. News source: Forbes.com The thing about corporate jets is that they often save companies money as they whisk top executives from place to place in the lap of luxury. But given Ford’s recent financial problems, it rubbed those far below the C-suite the wrong way that Fields was getting a trip home on the company’s dime, no matter that it will probably cost the automaker more to send him to and from Florida every week on commercial flights. Fields, 45, initially defended his use of the company plane. “My commitment is to leading a turnaround in Ford North America,” he told the Associated Press. “As part of that, I am using my compensation plan for what’s best for my family.” That’s a tough argument to make, however, to workers whose jobs and benefits are on the line. (See “Ford Exec Gives Up Jet Commute”)Ford has revealed that its corporate jet cost the company $214,479 for the final quarter of 2005. The carmaker is expected to reveal a full-year cost for 2006 later this year under new government regulations for disclosure of executive compensation. Fields’ trips home are only a part of the total, and how big a part is not clear. What is clear is that Fields, who was put in charge of Ford’s largest unit in October 2005, has presided over an increasingly steep slide in sales and profitability. Ford lost $3.3 billion in North America through the first nine months of 2006, part of a $7 billion overall deficit. For the corresponding period in 2005, Ford lost $1.3 billion in North America.Fields’ total compensation in 2005 was about $3 million, including a $1 million retention bonus. Previously, he was head of the company’s European and luxury-brand operations, which he was credited with bringing back to profitability.He was previously head of Ford’s European and the premier automotive group for 17 months, where he was credited with turning around those businesses. Since he’s left, Ford’s Premier Automotive Group, which controls such marks as Aston Martin, Jaguar and Volvo, has slipped into the red, losing $518 million for the first nine months of last year. The Associated Press contributed to this article.
Checking Plug Wires
Spark plug wires are pretty durable. They aren’t a moving part so they don’t wear out too often. A careful inspection of your plug wires can avoid any problems.The only thing that can really go wrong with a plug wire is a break in the insulation. The insulation (the rubber on the outside of the wire) keeps the electricity where it needs to be so it sparks on the inside of your engine, not someplace else before it gets there. If the insulation is cracked, the spark will jump off the wire, or arc, onto something metal under the hood. An arcing plug wire can cause a weak spark or no spark at all in the cylinder with the bad wire. This makes your car run rough and can affect your gas mileage. It can also cause unburned fuel to pass into the exhaust system where it can harm your catalytic convertor. There have even been stories that involve both a fuel leak and an arcing plug wire, resulting in a fire! It can happen.A good time to check your wires would be while you change your spark plugs. So do a quick inspection and save yourself some headache. Here’s how:With your engine off, start at the distributor end of the plug wire and work your way toward the plug end. You’re looking for anything that is not smooth, pliable rubber. Bend the wires slightly to be sure no cracks appear. Check the boots at the distributor end of the wires to be sure they are not torn or cracked. Finally, check the wires at the spark plug end one at a time by pulling it off the plug and inspecting the end for any tears or cracks. Also look to be sure there is no burning or darkening of the end. If you find any damage, it’s time to buy a new set. They can be as little as $20 or as much as $100+ for a set depending on your application News source: Auto Repair About
20 ways to waste money
Last year we discussed a few ways to avoid the mechanic by completing your own simple auto maintenence. Today, MSN in Seattle adds 20 ways to waste money on your car.Can you add to to this list. To me it’s pretty good.Premium gas instead of regular. Buy the cheapest Fuel that doesn’t make your car engine knock. All octane does is prevent knock; a grade higher than the maker of your car recommends is not a “treat.”3,000-mile oil changesTaking false economies. Better to replace a timing belt on the manufacturer’s schedule than to have it break somewhere in western NebraskaUsing the dealer’s maintenance schedule instead of the factory’sUsing a dealer for major services. Independent shops almost always will do the same work much cheaperUsing a dealer for oil changesNot replacing your air filter and wiper blades yourselfGoing to any old repair shopChanging your antifreeze every winterReplacing tires when you should be replacing shocksLetting a brake squeal turn into a brake jobNot complaining when your warranty claim is rejected Not keeping recordsBuying an extended warrantyOverinsuring. Never skimp on liability, but why buy collision and comprehensive insurance on a junker you can probably afford to replace?Assuming the problem is majorNot changing the fuel filterNot knowing how to change a tire. Have you even looked at your spare?Not keeping your tires properly inflatedCar washesI personally agree with all of these. If you don’t let us know. For some reason auto maintenance myths always bring out the aggression in people. News source: dumblittleman
What is BLUETOOTH
It seems unlikely that when Danish King Harald Blatant united sworn enemies in the Middle Ages he could have ever predicted the influence of his actions or the postmodern use of his name – translated “Harold Bluetooth” in English. Seen as the electronic equivalent to the king’s unifying influence, Bluetooth is a new technology that allows different devices from different manufacturers (and, in the case of cell phones, different providers) to “talk” to each other on a shared wireless platform. Essentially an ultralow power radio signal, Bluetooth allows wireless access to certain devices within about 30 feet. This all sounds complicated and, perhaps rather boring, but the net effect of this technology is added flexibility and convenience for those who frequently rely on handheld electronic devices such as phones, cameras and PDAs. According to Michael Foley, executive director of the Bluetooth Special Interest Group, “Bluetooth was founded on the principles of low power, low cost, security and ease of use.” News source: Edmonds.com The advantage of Bluetooth-enabled devices is that Bluetooth is a standard operating “system” for lack of a better word. Various devices from diverse manufacturers can communicate wirelessly. Foley notes, “In many cases, involved companies may be competitors or have nothing in common except for Bluetooth. For example, Bluetooth makes it possible to use your favorite Microsoft keyboard with an Apple Power Book.” Also, with a Bluetooth-enabled camera (or camera/phone) you can wirelessly transfer photos to any Bluetooth printer and get instant prints. You can also compare and synchronize calendars in your PDA and transfer files, music or photos from camera to computer or computer to computer or from phone to phone. With Bluetooth-enabled phones you can wirelessly transfer contact information, meeting requests and e-mail messages to other paired devices.From an automotive perspective, Bluetooth offers the ability to utilize your personal cell phone through an in-car system. Cars like the Chrysler 300C, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Saab 9-3, Toyota Prius and others offer Bluetooth as a factory-installed feature. Other automakers that currently offer Bluetooth capabilities include Acura, Audi, BMW, Bentley, Cadillac, Dodge, Ferrari, Infiniti, Jaguar, Land Rover, Lexus Maybach, Mitsubishi, and Nissan. Expect many more models to offer Bluetooth by the 2006 model year. What makes Bluetooth so appealing (in addition to ease of use) is its relatively low cost. For example, Chrysler’s system is called UConnect; the option costs about $290 and consists of a Bluetooth receiver (mounted out of sight), a microphone and a small control pad mounted to the dash.Aftermarket kits are also available if you’re not in the market for a new car. A company called Parrot makes several adapter kits as does Motorola and others. The kits are very affordable with prices starting well below $200.Even if you do opt for an aftermarket system, Bluetooth offers all the safety and convenience of a factory-installed car phone combined with the freedom of a handheld cell phone. The user must have a Bluetooth-enabled cell phone in order to take advantage of the in-car feature, but those phones are becoming more and more common and are not significantly more expensive than phones without Bluetooth (some Bluetooth phones are even less expensive than a phone without the feature). Cell phone makers such as Motorola, Nokia, Samsung and Sony-Ericsson currently sell phones with Bluetooth capabilities.With a Bluetooth phone, you can make and receive calls from your car using your existing cell phone number. You use minutes in the normal way and the charges show up on your regular cell phone bill. But perhaps the best feature is that to make and receive calls on your Bluetooth phone, you don’t need a docking station or hard-wired connections. OnStar has a similar feature, but it requires that you have an OnStar-equipped car (usually a General Motors product) and you must use Verizon as your cell phone carrier. Even then, your car will have a separate phone number and you will have to forward your cell phone calls to your car phone. With Bluetooth, if your phone is on and somewhere in the car, you will be able to make and receive phone calls. No call forwarding is necessary as the phone “sees” your car like any other external accessory – similar to a wireless headset. If the car’s interface or your phone allows the use of voice commands, you can make and receive phone calls while in the car without having to touch any buttons.The application gets even more interesting for motorcycle owners, as the availability of a Bluetooth-enabled helmet makes it possible to talk on the phone while piloting a bike – not that we’re endorsing that kind of thing. In cooperation with Motorola, Italian helmet maker Momo has developed a Bluetooth helmet that not only looks cool, but has an integrated speaker and microphone. This is not unlike preexisting technology that allows bikers in close proximity to talk to each other via two-way radio technology, but clearly the ability to make and receive phone calls pushes the technology forward by leaps and bounds. The BMW System V helmet uses similar technology but is a full-face helmet which makes talking on the phone a more realistic endeavor.While the potential for Bluetooth technology seems almost limitless, its introduction into the automobile could prove to be more than just convenient. Both the federal and local governments have been increasingly scrutinizing the wisdom of letting motorists talk on the phone while driving. Bluetooth could be a technology that offers a safe compromise between those who want to exercise their inalienable right to yak on the phone and those whose job it is to protect us from those who yak on the phone while piloting a two-ton chunk of steel and glass.Ease of use combined with increasing availability leads us to believe that Bluetooth will soon become as common as big hair at a Bon Jovi concert. If you’re shopping for a new phone, PDA or camera, find one with Bluetooth capability. In the end it will make your life that much easier.
Installing a car stereo
I love my new 2005 Ford Mustang coupe, but stock radio’s flat, bass-less sound and distortion at high volumes left the audio enthusiast in me wanting more. Sure, I could have opted for the dealer upgrade when I bought the vehicle, but I wanted to choose my own components instead of leaving the decision up to Ford.I wanted my dashboard to look like a console from the Starship Enterprise.I wanted to be enveloped in crystal clear sound with crisp highs and full mid-tones.I wanted a rich, ground-trembling bass that shook the sidewalk as I cruised with the volume cranked.What I didn’t want was a $500 invoice from the car audio professional who’d install my sophisticated new system (and then another $500 invoice to extract my components if I sell the car). So, against the better judgment of the audio experts I consulted, I took up the challenge to install a sophisticated car audio system–complete with GPS navigation, a DVD player, an iPod connection and a Blue Tooth hands-free mobile phone kit, all controlled by a 7-inch touch screen–on my own.It looked like a daunting job, but I learned that upgrading your car stereo is not as complicated as it seems. If you follow my advice–which is based on my mistakes–you can avoid ending up like I did, frustrated, sweaty, out of speaker wire and almost out of patience. News source: MSN.com MAKE A PLANBefore you start turning the screwdriver and ripping into your dashboard, set aside time to plan out the entire installation process. It wasn’t until I was looking at a colorful fistful of stock radio wires–with no wiring diagram for reference–that I realized my confidence–er, haste–wasn’t going to get me anywhere (it turns out that the 50 feet of speaker wire I assumed would be more than enough for a tiny Mustang, is about three feet short when you finish all the splicing, meaning I had to rerun all the wiring.I’m not kidding about this. If there’s one piece of advice you have to follow it is this: Read through each component’s instructions to create a master installation plan. Know what you have, where each piece is going to go, and what extra tools it will take to connect everything. Make sure that you’re confident that once you pull apart your dashboard you’ll be able to fit it back together. Check literature about your car to make sure you don’t need extra adapters such as a custom radio faceplate, or, especially with older or imported vehicles, to make sure there are no non-standard components behind the radio (such as a separate amplifier buried deep within the console) that might greatly complicate the process. Finally, get a big piece of paper and draw a diagram that details where every wire will run. This will organize your thoughts and uncover any potential problems.In addition to all your new equipment you’re going to need wire cutters, black tape, crimpers, pliers, screwdrivers, a rubber mallet, a drill, a Dremmel, a ratchet set, flashlight, wire tubing, double sided tape and wire tires to get the job done.STEP 1: Replacing the Head UnitWhen purchasing a head unit (the in-dash radio that controls your system), make sure you chose the appropriate size for your car. Head units are sized as single-din (a 180 x 50 mm panel) or double-din (180 x 100 mm panel) and you can often purchase an adaptor plate to fit a single-din unit in your double-din vehicle. The opposite was true for my car: I installed a double-din 7inch touch screen head unit, the Kenwood DDX-6019 available at [url”>www.Kenwood.com. Keep in mind that depths, although largely standard, could vary, so pay attention to how much space you have.To make the installation much easier, you should also purchase a wire harness designed specifically for your vehicle’s make and model. This will save you from having to cut any wires inside your dash, and, trust me, that’s well worth the $20 you should expect to pay for a harness. Before you begin to disassemble your dash, you can splice the new wiring harness to your new radio by matching wire colors and descriptions. Also attach Kenwood’s add-on Ipod control interface (KCA-iP500) and navigation system (KNA-G510) following the product’s simple instructions. Once the harness is connected, the rest of the job is plug-and-play. You can find the correct harness and instructions at [url”>www.Crutchfield.com.Armed with your master plan, carefully remove the dashboard components surrounding your radio by removing any set screws or hex bolts securing the fairing and carefully pulling the component away from the vehicle. You should see a couple of set screws holding in the stock radio. Remove these, and slide out the old head unit.A confusing collection of colorful wires should follow the stock radio. Disconnect these by carefully prying apart the wiring harness connection that connects the stock radio to the vehicle. The harnesses can be tough to pull apart, but with some wiggling it will eventually separate. Disconnect the radio’s antenna connection and set the old head unit aside (don’t throw it out–if you want to keep your new system when you sell your car, you’ll eventually need to re-install the old radio).I decided to install a Parrot 3200 LS-COLOR hands free kit, which is best done when you’re reinstalling the radio head unit. This connects my bluetooth cell phone to the sound system. I can hear calls through the speakers and talk using the supplied microphone. It auto-mutes the music when a call comes in, and it interfaces with the head unit via another wiring harness, making installation very easy.Next, connect the antenna cable, and slide in your new head unit. But before you start screwing the radio into place, turn on the car and test your connections. If you don’t get any sound, or the radio refuses to turn on, or the sound is reversed (right speakers play the left track, or the front speakers play the rear track, etc.) the culprit is likely a faulty splice in the wiring harness. Pull out the radio and recheck your connections.If all you’re doing is swapping out you radio, follow your system’s instructions to fully secure the head unit and put your dashboard back together. You’re done. Enjoy your new system.Don’t let the mess of wires scare you. If you plan out your installation you wont have to cut a single wire in the car! It’s simple–just Plug-and-Play.When installing a new radio, use a wiring harness.Here is a close up of the after market harness (left) and the radios harness (right).To connect the aftermarket wiring harness to the new radio, match the clearly marked wires to the ones on the harness, then twist and crimp. On the right is what your connections should look like when all the wires are properly crimped.STEP 2: Powering Your SystemThe easy part is over–things are about to get tougher. This is where your install diagram is crucial. Your entire audio system is going to be powered through your amp, so make sure to choose one that has enough juice and supports as many channels as your system needs. The Mean-Machine MM 8000.5 amp is where I will be making all manual connections–no harness or plug and play quick-fixes here. Pick a spot to install the amp that you can reach with both hands easily. The amp needs to breathe, so while it can be mounted almost anywhere, the best location is the trunk–and never mount an amp upside down. To make things a little easier, purchase an amp-install kit–it’s an all inclusive package to get your amp powered up.Let’s get started. The amp’s main power lead needs to be connected directly to the battery. For safety reasons disconnect the battery’s negative wire from its post. Then using the supplied ring terminal, connect the power wire (usually blue if using an aftermarket kit) with the fuse holder directly to the battery positive post. Leave out the fuse until the install is complete and ready for testing. Run the power wire through the fire wall (look for pre-existing holes or routed wires that you can run it along). The power must be run on the opposite side of the signal (RCA) cables to prevent signal noise, which would sound like a dentist-drill in the background of the music. If there is no hole in your fire wall and you have to drill, make sure to avoid any of your car’s vital components.Next connect the amp to the head unit’s preouts (RCA inputs) located on the back. On the Kenwood’s deck there were three preouts: front, rear and sub. Connect, following standard color codes (red for left and white for right). While you’re connecting the preouts, also connect the amps turn-on lead. The turn on lead does exactly what the name implies–it’s the amps on/off switch, turning the amp on every time the receiver in use.To get the wires to the amp, bundle and tuck them under the doors sill and back seats, all the way to the trunk. Use wire ties and electrical tape to fasten your bundle to any preexisting wires along the way.On to connecting the amp’s ground. The ground wire is short and the same gauge as the power. It must be connected to the bare metal of the chasses or frame. Find a near by bolt and sand or scrape away any paint. Secure the ground wire using the ring terminal supplied in your amp kit. If you have to use a screw, watch where you’re going and use a short screw–you don’t want to hit your gas tank.For safety, disconnect the negative battery terminal before connecting the amp’s power lead.Look for pre-existing holes through which you can route the amps power wire through the firewall.Clearly marked preouts on the back of the radio connect to the amp (in the trunk).Tucking your wires under the door trim hides the wires nicely.The rca cables from the radio connect to the left side of the amp.The ground wire connects to a bolt in the trunk via a nut a lock washer. Remember to sand around the hole–the ground needs to touch bare metal.STEP 3: Install Your Speakers And SubThe speakers (and subwoofer) make the system. A great set can make even a stock radio sound great yet selecting a good set requires more than just comparing specs. Get out into show rooms and find a set that matches your acoustic preferences–this is not the time to settle.After many hours of in-store testing, I selected the MB Quart line by Maxxonics. MB Quart has been developing and manufacturing speaker systems for more than 30 years and they’ve learned a thing or two about audio production in that time–they turned my car into a sound experience. Here are the specs:SPECS* Front/Back speakers model #QSD 213* Woofers with die-cast aluminum chassis* and WPC-coated polypropylene cone with neodymium magnet* 1″ tweeters with two-piece titanium dome in metal housing with neodymium magnet* Q crossover with selected high-quality* components and variable four-level tweeter output* Bi-wiring and bi-amping enabledWhen selecting speakers consider this: are you just replacing the stock system or do you want to do a custom job? I went with a 4×1 custom system because I didn’t want to rip apart my doors to replace the factory speakers. To solve this, I used Q-Logic’s Q-Forms Kick Panel speaker enclosures that discreetly and unobtrusively hold the MB Quart’s QSD 213 front 5-1/4 inch speakers at the drivers and passenger’s feet while directing their sound in the right direction. Q-Forms are available for over 500 different model cars, come in multiple colors to match your interior and are indistinguishable from the factory finish. Q-Logic also made a custom subwoofer enclosure that fits the 12 inch MB Quart’s DWG 304 perfectly. It tucks the bass-box neatly into the passenger’s side rear-well, saving cargo space, which, in a sports car, is particularly valuable.When the speakers and subwoofer are in place, route the wires back to the amp. For the front speakers, run the wires on the same side as the signal cables and turn-on lead that you ran earlier. Make sure to hide the wires for the rear speakers somewhere in the trunk as they’re the only components that are wired by themselves.For better sound, the MB Quart speakers came with crossovers. A crossover is a device that restricts and separates the range of frequencies sent to the speaker. I mounted four crossovers (one per speaker), in the trunk near the amp for easier connection. Connect each speaker’s woofer and tweeter (+/-) terminals to the corresponding OUTPUT terminals on the crossover. Now connect the amp’s output terminals to the INPUT on each of the crossovers. It might sound complicated, but if you follow the manufactures’ instructions carefully, the improvement in sound is well worth the time, labor and extra speaker wire. After the wires are routed, speakers are mounted and the subwoofer is in place, follow the diagram provided with the amp for the correct hook up.Lastly, hide all wiring as best as possible. Use electrical tape, wire ties and tubing to conceal your work. And don’t get rid of that diagram just yet–put it somewhere safe in the car. In case you have a problem later on it will be easier to pull that out than trying to remember! Now install the fuse, turn on the car and see how she sounds.The original panel was held on by clips. One tug and it was off.The speaker wires are routed under the door sill and through Q-logic kick panel. Note: there are 2 sets–one for the woofer, and the other for the tweeter.The MB QUART sitting pretty. Both sides were done in 20 minutes.Q-logics custom sub box fits in the right side of the rear wheel well of the trunk.The combination of MB Quart’s subwoofer and Q-logics sub box not only looks good, it preserves trunk space.The crossovers have 3 sets of wires: One connects to the woofer, one to the tweeter and the last connects to the amp.Clean up your wiring using electrical tape, wire tubing and zip ties.Don’t install the fuse until you’re ready to test the system.Here is the right side of the amp with the wires connected.The amp, fully connected, is installed on top of the removable floorboard/spare tire cover.STEP 4, FINAL STEP: Hit the Road, Tune in Your Favorite Station and Crank Up the VolumeAfter a few days of sweat, some minor cuts and a little aggravation, I’m finally done. Every time I ride in my Mustang, I’m reminded that the endeavor was worth it, even though I took much longer than I thought it would — if you plan your project properly, it should take about eight to ten hours to complete.
Jumper Pack Problems
I am having some concerns about these jumper packs there have been several occurrences of weird problems after they are used I myself have one in my garage that I have used several times with no problems so the jury is still out I always thought that the battery cables should have a different connection for the negative and positive to prevent connecting them backwards but the manufacturers still do not listen to me or for that matter ask for my input Any reports of problems would be appreciated perhaps with only one end to connect these are all reverse connection related
Fluid Flush Fallacy
If you take your car to a shop for a routine oil change you have a high probability of being told your car needs one or more of its critical fluids flushed, changed or serviced. This started originally at the quick-lube shops and spread to the whole auto repair industry, including the dealers.Part of the reason is technology. New machines have made it possible in most cases to change the fluids quickly and easily, or so the sellers of the machines say. But the real driving force is profitability.Today I’m changing a timing belt and water pump on a Dodge Caravan. It will take all of five hours of bay time, a lot of parts and a lot of potential liability. In half the time I could do a series of flushes with little effort or liability and make much more profit. Since most people, mechanics and shop owners included, respond to economic incentives, it is coming to pass that every car going to every shop needs every fluid flushed every day.In short, what is really being flushed is your wallet. It is straining the credibility of an industry that rightly or wrongly has always had credibility problems News source: AOL Autos The Four FlushesOld-timers from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s always knew it was a good idea to periodically drain the radiator, put a bottle of flush chemical and water in, run it a half-hour then wash it out again with plain water before refilling it with the proper mix of antifreeze and distilled water. Or if you wanted to do a really nice job you could cut one of those plastic flush tees from a Prestone flush kit into the heater hose, allowing you to hook a garden hose up and run a continuous flush.Now these old-timers are being told their transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and who knows what else must be flushed on a yearly, monthly, or even daily regimen. Strangely, their ’77 Olds Cutlass managed to run 180,000 miles without all this attention.Now don’t get me wrong. I am in favor of changing most fluids at 30, 60, and 90,000-mile intervals, regardless of what the owner’s manual says. But that is not what’s happening. These services are being oversold to a degree that is bound to damage the reputation of our industry to the net result that consumers will not believe any of us, even when we are telling the truth.The RundownLet’s start with the automatic transmission — the most frequently flushed fluid besides the radiator. The advent of the transmission fluid exchange machine was a great step. In the past, automatic transmission fluid could only be changed by removing the transmission oil pan, which only holds three to six of the eight to 10 quarts in the transmission. The second you started the car, the new fluid mixed with the old, eliminating much of the benefit of the service.The fluid exchange machine, which some people choose to call a flush machine, cuts into the transmission cooler line at the radiator. As the car runs, old fluid goes out into the waste tank while new fluid is simultaneously pumped in. If the shop is really thorough, the car is lifted and actually driven through all the gears while the exchange is taking place. And if the service is done properly, the transmission oil pan still has to be removed and cleaned and the filter replaced — a solid hour and a half of work. So if a quick-lube shop is offering it to you in 35 minutes, something’s not being done.Now, as to checking the dipstick for color or smell to determine if your fluid needs to be changed: At the extremes (not changed for 100,000 miles or changed yesterday), you can tell. But as far as whether it was changed 3,000 miles ago or 20,000 miles ago, no one can know, and if they say they can, they are lying.Power steering fluid in general is not listed in most maintenance schedules as needing periodic replacement, although there are some exceptions. But we have a machine for that now too, so expect to be told you need your power steering fluid flushed. Look, if every three to five years (45,000 to 60,000 miles) you change your power steering fluid, that’s not a bad idea. And replacing it with synthetic fluid, if allowable, is even better. But you certainly don’t need to do it yearly or even every two years.Brake fluid lives in a sealed environment because exposure to moisture will ruin it. No one ever dreamed of messing with it until Hondas became popular, and Honda for some reason does call for brake fluid replacement. Now we have (you guessed it), a brake fluid flush machine. If your factory manual calls for it, by all means, change your brake fluid. Other than that, leave it alone unless you are having brake repairs done, in which case changing it may not only make sense but be necessary if the hydraulic system has been compromised.It is not enough that you are changing your oil every 3,000 miles. Now when you go for your oil change they want to hook up a motor flush machine to clean your oil system out. Strange, my ’63 Valiant didn’t need that. Look, this goes under the category “If you need it, it won’t help” — and thus sales are being encouraged on vehicles that really don’t need it. If an oil system is dirty enough to have deposits of sludge forming, you’re only going to get the sludge out by removing the valve covers and oil pan and scraping it out. Any stirring up of the stuff without removing it is likely to do more harm than good.Stocking StuffersI had an oil-change guy who lasted about a month. Every time a truck or sport-utility vehicle came in (the only vehicles left with a classic differential), he would call me over, waving his finger at me after having dipped it in the differential oil, saying “it needs a differential service,” as if he who barely knew how to open a hood would know. Evidently it was a service heavily pushed at his last place of employ.Autos Article Archive On a military 6×6 doing heavy duty in Iraq, differential oil needs constant attention. On a domestic SUV whose only off-road experience is driving onto the grass at the soccer field, just follow the owner’s manual or change the fluid every 60,000 miles. The exception would be if you tow things or if you submerge the differential by backing a boat into the water.Oh, and the transfer case fluid need only be changed at the required mileage or 60,000 miles.Avoid the Wallet FlushThe easiest way to avoid having your wallet flushed is to try to stay with one shop that you trust, and keep good records. Now I know that even my best customers occasionally go elsewhere for an oil change when my shop is not convenient. So if you find yourself in a strange shop being told that the very lives of your children depend on your getting a particular service at that moment, just walk away.Well, actually, that would be a tough one. But a new customer is often viewed as fresh meat, since all their existing customers have been flushed into the next galaxy. The harder the sell, the more you must resist. And believe me, the sell can be pretty rough. They can come at you with test tubes of fluid samples, and with pH strips whose color change indicates you are seconds from disaster (all provided by the flush machine manufacturers). Even my sister-in-law, whose toughness and command of Arabic swear words sent Egyptian border guards scurrying for cover, succumbed once.And to the people in my industry, the owners and shop managers, I say, “What is it going to take? Another ’60 Minutes’ or ‘Nightline’ exposé where they go shop to shop and find out how many flushes they need after chemically certifying the fluids as new? Do you know how tough business is gonna be after that happens? Try thinking a little farther ahead than next week’s bonus check.”
How to handle minor car problems yourself
How to handle minor car problems yourself — and get back on the road.By ERIC PETERS We’ve all heard that cars are complicated — and that’s true — but that doesn’t mean you’re completely helpless when a problem arises. Some minor automotive hiccups can be dealt with even by people who don’t know a cold start injector from a pine tree air freshener.For example:1. The car feels “floaty”: Very often this is caused by nothing more serious than underinflated tires. Instead of supporting the weight of the car evenly and firmly, the under-inflated tire’s sidewall flexes excessively — imparting a slidey seasick motion. Your car suddenly handles poorly — and you find you need more time to stop. Plus, you’re also wearing out your tires really quickly. Solution? Top off the air in all four tires so that they are inflated to the recommended pressure listed on the side of the tire (or on the sticker inside the door jamb or your owner’s manual). Never assume tires are properly inflated just by looking at them — or by kicking the sidewall. The only way to accurately tell whether a tire is properly inflated is by using a tire pressure gauge to check it . You can buy a tire pressure gauge for less than $10 at any auto parts store. Keep it in the glove box — and use it at least every couple of weeks. News source: AOL Autos 2. The engine is making “clicking” or “tapping” sounds: Very often this is caused by low oil. It’s not a major problem — unless you continue to operate the engine this way. Being a quart or more down from the “full” mark on the dipstick can happen to anyone — and any engine, not just old, high-mile clunkers. All internal combustion engines consume some of their lubricating oil as they run. Check out various owner’s manuals and you’ll see that burning up a quart or so of oil every 3,000-5,000 miles is not unusual — or anything to worry about. The problem arises when the lost oil is not replaced, which can starve moving parts of oil, especially at start-up after the engine has been sitting overnight, when all the remaining oil is sitting at the bottom of the oil pan. So if your engine is making clicking or light tapping noises, the first thing to do is pop the hood and pull out the engine oil dipstick. It will have markings on it indicating “full” and “add.” If it’s low, add a quart, run the engine for a few minutes, then shut it off and recheck the level after the oil has had a chance to settle back to the bottom. Add more as necessary to reach the “full” mark — and the clicking noises should (hopefully) disappear. (If not, there may be a more serious underlying problem that you should have a trained mechanic check out.)3. The key is stuck in the ignition: This fairly common problem is caused by the locking mechanism in the steering column not lining up exactly right. You can usually unstick things by returning the key to the “run” position, centering the steering wheel, then returning the switch to “off” and pulling the key out. Don’t try to force either the key (it’ll snap or bend) or the steering column (you could break something there, too). It may help to spray a little aerosol lubricant (such as WD-40) into the locking mechanism, but if the key is still “sticky,” have your dealer look at it.4. The gearshift won’t move out of “Park”: This problem is caused by a safety device called the brake-shift interlock, which is designed to prevent the car from being put into a forward gear before the driver has his foot on the brake. Sometimes, though, the mechanism breaks — and it’s seemingly impossible to put the car in gear so you can get going. Luckily, the fix is easy. If you look around the area around the shifter handle, you’ll see a small tab that’s designed to be broken off in order to temporarily defeat the brake-shift interlock — and let you drive instead of wait for the tow truck. (Later on, you can stop by the dealer and have the brake-shift interlock checked and fixed as necessary — and the trim plate with the break-off tab repaired or replaced.)5. The turn signals won’t blink — or they stay on without blinking: If your left or right turn signal stops working — or starts acting funny — the problem is almost always with the flasher and not the lights themselves. The flasher is a small round thing that plugs into your car’s fuse panel. It’s a simple matter of finding the fuse panel (see your owner’s manual), pulling out the dead flasher and plugging in a new one, which you can buy for a couple bucks at any auto parts store. Just bring in the old one for reference — or ask the auto parts store counter man to give you what you need. It’s also a good idea to keep some extra fuses of the type your car uses tucked in the glove box for those just-in-case moments when a 15 cent fuse can be the difference between being stuck and out of luck — and making it home. Whenever any electric-related system suddenly stops working, the fuse box is the first thing to check. But if the fuse continues to burn out, there is probably a bigger problem here that will need an expert’s touch. Never crutch the problem by swapping in a higher rated fuse — a 20 amp in place of a 10 amp, for example. That’s just asking for a fried wiring harness and big-bucks repairs.Article ArchiveMissed the latest and greatest? No problem, find stories and news here:Autos Article Archive 6. Brakes “screech”: Any type of grinding or screeching noise coming from your car’s brakes is cause for immediate investigation — but more likely than not, it’s the wear indicators telling you it’s time to have new pads installed. Many new cars have tabs built into the brake pad material that are designed to make noise once the friction material has worn beyond a certain point. It’s no big deal — unless you ignore the warning. If you do and the brakes wear down to bare metal, you’ll dig ruts in the rotors and get to pay for new ones — instead of just for pads. As a general rule, front brakes will go for about 30,000 miles before getting on the raw side; rear brakes (whether discs or drums) tend to last longer because it’s the front brakes that do most of the work of stopping the car. It’s not unusual for rear brake pads or shoes to go for 50,000 miles or more before they need to be replaced.7. Engine never warms up: If the temperature needle seems to stay on “cold” no matter how long you’ve been driving and the heater hardly puts out anything more comforting than a tepid breeze — you may have a stuck thermostat. The thermostat regulates the flow of engine coolant through the engine, radiator and a part called the heater core — which is how you get warm air inside the car when everything’s working right. The thermostat helps the engine warm up faster by limiting circulation of coolant at start-up — but after it reaches a pre-set temperature, it should open up and allow the now-warm coolant to freely flow throughout the entire system, including the heater core. Sometimes, though, the thermostat will stick — and if it sticks, especially in winter, the engine will have a tough time fully warming up — and you will be one cold commuter! If you notice the engine running cool all the time –or the heater never seems to work very well — have a mechanic check out the thermostat. It’s an easy fix — and you’ll be toasty again in no time.