Cleaning the throttle body is not rocket science, but there are a few pitfalls. Technically you’re not supposed to clean them, and several manufactures will place a sticker by the body stating this. Several use a special coating on the bore that can be easily damaged, Ford is perhaps the most critical. If this coating is damaged on a very rare occasion the idle may increase slightly. Normally the PCM would handle this, if not remove the IAC connector and adjust the base idle with the AC off you may also have to remove the neg battery terminal and clear the computer so it can re-learn its strategies, but as I said this is a rare problemIf you use sea foam or GM cleaner which is expensive, there should be no concern; some of the stronger carb cleaners may cause some damage. Do not use a cheap cleaner it will cause more problems than it cures.Remove the intake tube to the throttle body; if the body is easy to remove go ahead it is easier and neater but you will have to replace the gasket. Watch out for cooling lines as this is not worth messing with often you can loosen the body and not totally remove, leave the cables and hoses connected disconnect the easy connectors, do this only if the rear is difficult to get to but normally it is not that dirty on the rear of the throttle blade. Your main area to clean is where the blade meets the bore at idle and the small bypass passages on the bottom. A few rags under the body will contain the mess. In some fashion hold open the throttle .a broom stick works. Spray the area down, use care that the red straw does not shoot into the engine. Leave it sit for 10-15 minutes then with a soft bristle brush, tooth brush is best, scrub the area down flush out with cleaner. Do not use any more cleaner then is necessary as it may cause cat problems. May have to be repeated if extremely dirty, it should be as shiny as a new nickel.I would also remove and clean the IAC at this time, be sure the pintel is dry before reinstalling, and do not lose the oring this is easy to do. Reassemble and go for a drive to clean out all the junk you sprayed into the engine. Ignore the white smoke it will go away quickly. One other trick to clean out the engine is to disconnect a vacuum hose and place it in a can of gum out and run the engine if you do a lot of stop and go or idling use the full can if not use only ½. If your cat is on the way out this may cause a problem you may also damage the O2, I recommend doing this only in extreme cases as there is a good chance of doing damage. Be sure your problem is carbon as many times we are too quick to place the blame when it is another problem. This will not clean the throttle body only the intake and upper valve area.
All posts by John
High Idle
If you have an older rice burner, and are having idle problems. Before getting too involved with the problem check the air duct from the air cleaner to the throttle body.It will usually be worse when put in gear. This is caused by the flex of the engine opening the gap. The hole is usually on the bottom of the tube and it is difficult to find at times. Running your hand over the tube may help or it may have to be removed. It may have to removed to repair it anyway. Duct tape is not a good choice as it will not hold to the material if you also use some contact cement it will stand up better. New ducts are not that expensive and I have usually found a good used one. Other causes are a dirty Idle Air Control, Dirty throttle body if you have to remove the duct I would clean the throttle body as a part of maintaince. More on cleaning the throttle body later. On some models there is also a problem with several filters. A severe vacuum leak can also be the cause but it has to quite large as usually this would increase the idle.
Expensive Hybrids
Recently it has been good to be in the hybrid business. Gas prices skyrockeded and the Toyota Prius inventories were lowA few months later, pump prices have dropped, and the inventory of gas-electric vehicles has risen, they have lost ground to cheaper but fuel-efficient conventional vehicles.The extra dollars for a hybrid car when gas was over $4 a gallon made sense if you were driving enough miles, it only took a few years to recoup the higher cost. But with the recession and fuel prices at their lowest in six years, consumers are unwilling to spend the dollars for just a few extra MPG.Automakers are counting on gas prices going back up. Toyota Motor Corp. introduced its Lexus HS250h hybrid sedan at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit and plans to show a redesigned 2010 Prius on Monday. Honda Motor Co. Insight hybrid, which will go on sale in April.Will compete with the Prius but will be priced lower than the larger, $23,650 Civic hybrid, a sign that Honda is targeting penny-pinching consumers.Ford Motor Co. unveiled a hybrid version of the Ford Fusion in November that can go up to 47 mph on batter power alone, and General Motors Corp. has turned out a number of hybrid versions of its vehicles recently, like the Chevrolet Malibu and the Saturn Vue.The cost of regular Fuel has fallen 56 percent from its all-time summer high, averaging $1.79 on Sunday up about 12 cents in the past week Hybrid sales plunged 43 percent in December and 50 percent in November. You would have to drive about 160,000 miles a year to break even. The average driver goes about 15,000 miles annually, that’s 10 plus years of driving for payback. At current pump prices you would have to drive 364K plus to break even, and that’s not counting the extra repair costs that a hybrid will accrue. The same dollars invested will double in less than 10 years. In addition the highway mileage is not that higher than a conventional, The Altima is only 2 MPG higher than a conventional.To be sure, hybrid premiums vary. The Toyota Prius is $3,800 more than a comparable Camry. On the other hand, a Mazda Tribute SUV hybrid costs $8,000 more than the conventional model.Drivers are worried about fuel economy, but they seem to be buying the smaller, fuel-efficient conventional car rather than the hybrid. The cars need to be more financially attractive, tax credits to hybrid buyers and, developing a domestic supply for hybrid batteries, instead of being imported and expensive.
Techs & Wrenches
We have had some terrible weather lately it either snows or is -20 or worse, highest snowfall for any month in Dec. I think a word of praise to the automotive techs and mechanics is in order. There is a difference between a technician and a mechanic or wrench. I don’t know how the techs of today keep up with the technology; today’s cars have more lines of computer code that the first manned satellite. Many of them have a PCM, ABS and body module and some have HVAC and security, among others. I have been retired for 4 years now but I still get involved in problem cars at several shops around town so I do keep my fingers in but I can see a time when I will no longer be able to do this. You have be involved on a daily basis or it is impossible to keep up. Today’s techs have to have computer knowledge and a thorough understanding of troubleshooting electrical systems. They also have to have training in AC, Power Steering, transmissions, brakes, security and sound systems. As all of these are computer controlled on many vehicles. Most techs will focus on 1 or 2 systems, but what do the smaller shops do. With ground controlled, low voltage and now hybrid. They deserve a pat on the back for the job they do. Add to this a minimum of 10,000 to 15,000 dollars in tools or in many cases more. They are severely under paid for what they do. I know several that have degrees and can make more repairing cars than they could be working in their field but I still think the majority are under paid and underappreciated. A wrench is the back breaking work R&R transmissions, engines repairing leaks or the lesser skilled repairs. They are definitely underappreciated, more so during the cold weather we have had. As far as pay goes it is all over the scale. This is where I started but then there was no such thing as a tech. I remember when the Dodge Charger came out with a lean burn controlled carb and ignition system, About 35 years ago, I was a service Manager in a Dodge dealership and one mechanic threw up his hands and quit saying there was no way he was going to work on it. What would he say today, I know several times I have opened a hood and wanted to say the same thing on some of the newer vehicles.I was lucky to have been involved with computers both in the home and auto version since the beginning and I feel this has helped a lot in my understanding and repairing problems over the years.A big pat on the back to all the techs and wrenches out there and thank you and keep up the good work.
Cooling System Flush
I know it is a little late in the season but I thought a few words about anti freeze are in order. I use regular ethylene glycol, I have considered the environmental safe alternative, but feel that more info is needed. I have a dog and do worry about leaks but I keep a close eye on it. I am also set in my ways. I also do not use dex cool, it worked well but if there was a leak and it allowed air into the system it caused a major corrosion problem. GM has instituted a refund program to reimburse owners. When to flush is also a concern with dex cool as it always looks clean. To check for parasitic or residual voltage, caused by the interaction of 2 or 3 metals in the engine, cooling and heating systems. Place the black lead of your voltage meter, set to the lowest scale, to ground the red lead in the coolant. There should be no voltage or no more than .05 of a volt.This will also work with ethylene glycol but normally the condition is an accurate measure of when to flush. If you have a problem with corrosion in the cooling system check for voltage if it is present in fairly new anti freeze check your grounds. I used to do my own flushes but I just don’t like the idea of the coolant entering the river, it is also illegal in many states. So now I have it done. I try to do it every other year. I also do not use recycled anti freeze, where they clean and reinstall your old anti freeze. No reason I just don’t like the idea and have my doubts it works. If you do your own flush be sure to open the heater control valve, on vehicles with automatic air it will be necessary to bring the engine temperature up. Using a chemical is OK but only necessary in badly corroded system. Also if the heater core is badly plugged flush it separately and it also helps break loose the corrosion if you open and close the hoses by using a pair of pliers to give the fluid a chug, chug and it will break the gunk lose, have patience water is cheap.
Nitrogen Yes Or No
Is nitrogen a good choice or is it worth the money and hassle. Nitrogen has many benefits it maintains tire pressure because the molecules are larger and do not leak as easy. Also heat is not a problem. The biggest advantage I think is that it does not hold moisture so with aluminum rims there would not be a corrosion problem, causing a leak at the bead seal. I believe the front tires are a larger problem with a bead leak because of the stress of front wheel drive and steering. Before FWD there were very little bead leak problems now we see it all the time. Do not use a can of sealant it will not cure the problem and is dangerous and a mess to clean up it will also affect the tire balance.I just stressed checking your tire pressure and since very few of us have nitrogen in our garage it will be a problem to check the pressure of course it would not have to be checked as often. The price runs from $5 to $20 depending on the size it is usually free if you do it with new tires.I just don’t see that it is worth the hassle and cost. I have talked to no one that is impressed that has put it in their tires, so I am going to have to say no to nitrogen.FYI I didn’t mention in my last topic that when you have new tires installed to check the pressure. I know they were just installed but many shops run the tires on the low side so they ride better, similar to moving the seat a ½ notch when you do a tune up they drive different and as we just spent money on it is an improvement.
Tire Pressure
My tires look fine so I will check them next week or it is to cold out to fool with them the valve core may freeze. I have heard and made myself almost every excuse there is to prevent checking my tires I have a compressor and heat in my garage so I really have no reason not to check them. If you think your tires look fine, check them, you will be surprised at how low they are. This is a major necessity with low profile tires as they have a lower volume of air. Buy a good tire gauge it doesn’t have to be digital, but they are accurate, and look cool. I use a chuck and gauge combination, easier to use, and check the accuracy once in a awhile with my digital.The valve stem freezing is a rare but possible problem, worse if the compressor you are using has an excess of water either in the lines or the tank. Usually a light tap will unfreeze it. How many pounds of pressure should I put in? On your tire there is a max pressure I go 6 pounds below this in the summer and 8 in the winter, rides to rough with higher pressure in the cold. I would suggest using the factory recommended pressure. There should be a decal either on the glove box door or the driver’s door post. You can go a few pounds higher but stay at least 4 pounds below max more in the summer. Tires can gain as much as 1 pond for every 10 degrees of temp and that is concrete temp not air. Tire pressure is one of the keys to gas mileage.
Fluid Changes
Fluid changes to do or not to do is the question. I am going to try and clear the mystery about when or if to change fluids. I know many are not going to agree with my ideas but then I am used to that.Engine Oil: At the max every 5000 miles or 90 days. If you put on a lot of highway miles you can extend this or if you do a lot of stop & go driving or idling then shorten it. Synthetic oil is a different set of requirements. Changing the filter and adding a quart every 5000 miles and a total change at 2nd or 3rd filter change. I can’t leave the oil in for that long it just doesn’t feel right, so I use regular oil. I do put synthetic in my wife’s car in the winter so it starts easier as it sits outside all day and it can get cold here. Power Steering Fluid: Anytime you do a repair IE pump, gear or hose. Do a complete change not just the reservoir. IF the fluid looks black change it. Transmission Fluid: Every 50,000 change the fluid and filter I am not a big fan of flushes but when you change the fluid change it all not just the converter. If you pull a trailer be sure you have a cooler and change it more often depending on how often you pull a trailer. Or anytime it looks bad or smells. When you change it check the pan for filings if there are sell the vehicle, or be prepared for a huge tranny repair bill. Constant transmissions are a whole new ball game. Pay strict attention to the owner’s manual nothing will destroy these transmissions like dirty fluid. From what I have seen they are going to be expensive to maintain.Brake fluid: Any time you do a break repair or have an ABS problem. If you don’t have ABS the repair change is not as important but I still recommend here again if you do it yourself it is cheap. I have cured many a ABS problem by changing fluid.Differential: Only if a repair is done or on a 4X4 I would recommend synthetic. Transfer Case: On older models only when repaired or dirty here again synthetic helps. On newer models with electronics check the owner’s manual and be sure to check the owner’s manual for correct fluid.Manual transmission: Only when repairing or if your owner’s manual calls for it. Be sure to use the correct fluid.Hints: If you have questions about the condition of PS or tranny fluid place a few drops on a white paper towel it will give a good indication of how dirty it is. When changing tranny or PS. Remove the return hose so you get all the fluid out. Add a can of additive; to the tranny and PS I use a half bottle in the PS. I prefer lube gard none other. Lube gard may make your fluid look black. Lucas makes a good product also but I don’t have a lot of experience except with the oil and that does an excellent job. Many of these jobs can be messy but you can save a considerable amount of money by doing them your self.Be certain you are using the right fluid if not you can do damsge.
Check Your Lights
Here in the North Country we have about 8 hours of sunlight this time of year so lights are very important. We are also having the heaviest snow fall on record for December add that to quite a few cloudy days and you need your lights pretty much all the time. Checking your headlamps after driving you notice one is out so you replace the bulb which can take from a few minutes to a hour depending on your vehicle, if they are easy to replace I usually replace both at the same time or if they are a chore I may heat the garage and then I would replace them both. Depending upon if I can find them on sale I have been using the Xenon lamps recently have them in one vehicle and so far they are OK. There are other things to check when you replace the bulb. In 1983 headlamp regulations were amended to allow composite headlamps to replace the sealed beamsWith the sealed beam lamp you replaced the bulb lens and reflective surface. Today when you replace the bulb none of these are replaced so they should be checked. If the reflective surface is tarnished or discolored the entire housing must be replaced which can be expensive unless you can find a serviceable used one. A tarnished or discolored reflective surface is usually an indication of a leak so the housing will have to be replaced in time anyway. If the lens is cloudy or scratched there are several alternatives. There are several polishes on the market which I have used and they all do a good job. I was amazed at how they sharpened up the look of a vehicle after I use them on the taillights. If they are badly deteriorated there is a restorative kit and several shops are advertising repair again what I have seen all are a great alternative. The most important item is to check your lights. A manager of a Jiffy Lube told me once if he could get his help to check all the lights he could afford an addition to his house. I know we averaged 1 in 4 vehicles having a bulb out when servicing them. So check your lights and take a glance at the tire at the same time. As my Dad used to say walk around to the passenger side once in awhile and you will save a lot of headaches.
Bigger Batteries
Cold weather always brings on the question, should I install the biggest battery that will fit in my vehicle? At one time the answer was yes but no more. Today’s vehicles have limited air flow under the hood and your battery needs the insulation and space required to stay cool, heat will actually destroy a battery quicker than cold weather. So stick to the size battery that is called for. As far as more amperage here again the modern vehicle is working with a limited output alternator and if the battery capacity is too large the alternator cannot keep it fully charged thereby limiting the life of the battery.Today’s batteries because of advancement in engineering are smaller and lighter, also the electronics in today’s vehicles are less power intensive. Many of the drivability sensors are 5 volt and with the advent of ground control the power requirements are less than older vehicles. Some of these advancements were to save money but they also saved weight and space to make the cab forward design and front wheel drive possible.The donut spare was another size and weight advancement. Of course plastics and, many other advancements also helped.